Saturday, November 23, 2013

Festa of the Madonna della Salute in Venice

The Black Madonna - Panagia Mesopantitisa, Venice - on the Festa della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
The Black Madonna - Panagia Mesopantitisa, Venice - Festa della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
(Venice, Italy) During the fifteen years I've lived in Venice, I have rarely missed the Festa of the Madonna della Salute on November 21. Most of the city, and much of the Veneto, makes the trek over the pontoon bridge from Santa Maria del Giglio next to the Hotel Gritti Palace and over to the Church of the Salute on Punta della Dogna to light a candle (or two or three) so that the Beloved Black Madonna will protect our health.


The plague first struck Venice in 1575. Desperate for relief, in 1577 the Venetian Senate decided to build a church in honor of Christ the Redeemer if God would end the plague. That worked (for a while), and the city of Venice has the magnificent Church of Redentore to show for it.

Church of Redentore - Photo: Cat Bauer venice blog
Church of Redentore - Photo: Cat Bauer
Unfortunately, the plague returned only 55 years later, so Doge Nicolò Contarini and the boys decided to build another church, this time pleading to the Virgin Mary for help. After all, La Serenissima was feminine, and under the Madonna's protection — or so the story goes.

On October 22, 1630, Contarini ordained that the church be built. The 26-year-old architect Baldassare Longhena won the competition to design it. Work started in 1631 and was finished in 1687; it was consecrated in 1681.

Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer venice blog
Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer

Longhena wrote:
"I have created a church in the form of a rotunda, a work of new invention, not built in Venice, a work very worthy and desired by many. This church, having the mystery of its dedication, being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, made me think, with what little talent God has bestowed upon me of building the church in the ... shape of a crown."
The centerpiece of the awesome Salute Church is the Panagia Mesopantitisa, a very wise Byzantine Black Madonna, who never fails to fill me with deep emotion. The Panagia Mesopantitisa gets all dolled up for the occasion, and puts on her finest jewels. If we understand where she comes from, perhaps we can understand why the Venetians gave her the starring role in such an impressive church.

Madonna della Salute in all her finery - Photo: Cat Bauer
Madonna della Salute in all her finery - Photo: Cat Bauer
The Panagia Mesopantitisa is from Candia, which was a Greek city originally named Chandax on the island of Crete. The Venetians bought the city for strategic purposes back in 1204 after the Fourth Crusade, and colonized the town. They held onto it for 465 years until 1669 after losing the famous War of Candia (1645-1669), a 21-year battle with the Ottoman Turks for possession of Crete.

The city is now named Heraklion, and is again part of Greece, and that is where the Eastern Orthodox Black Madonna named Panagia Mesopantitisa, ‘Madonna the Mediator’ comes from. She was brought to Venice by Doge Francesco Morosini after Candia fell into the clutches of the Ottomans and the Islamic culture. The sacred Christian icon was then given the honor of presiding over the high altar in the new and glorious church built to honor the Mother of Jesus Christ. 

From the Venice Comune:
"The Festa della Salute is probably the least "touristy" of the Venetian festivities and evokes strong religious feelings among the city's inhabitants.

The holiday is, like the Redentore, in memory of another bout of pestilence, which lasted for two years from 1630-31, and the subsequent vow by the Doge to obtain the intercession of the Virgin Mary.

Even today, thousands of inhabitants visit the main altar of the imposing Salute Church on November 21 to give thanks, and a strong symbolic tie remains between the city and the Virgin Mary."
After you buy your candle, you bring it inside the church and hand it to one of the candle lighters -- if left to our own devices, there is a strong possibility we would burn ourselves up given the size of the crowds.

Next I always stand directly in the rose mosaic circle under the enormous chandelier that dangles from  the center of the dome, and get one of my power charges for the year. In the center of the mosaic is a bronze circle engraved with the words Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI, which means "From the origin comes salvation, 1631."

Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI in Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
The crowd surges against the high altar until the young guards controlling the scene allow everyone to pass. You then wander back through the Sacristy, where you can buy little prayer cards and rosaries and gaze upon precious art by Titian and Tintoretto, and the first Pope John Paul's vestments -- who was, of course, Venetian, and died after only 33 days as Pope. For some reason, seeing the sweet Papa's actual clothes made me teary-eyed.

Wood carving on seat - right
(Those elaborate wooden carvings on the choir stalls behind the high altar were so bizarre I had to take a photo of them.)

Wood carving on seat - left
Then everyone pours back out down the steps and over to the endless stalls of sweets from Sicily and enormous balloons for the kids -- for Festa della Salute is a day when every kid in Venice proudly marches through the city clutching their carefully-chosen balloon.


One great thing about living in a Catholic country is that there are many miracles and lots of White Magic floating through the air, and Venice definitely has its own interpretations and rituals. So far, the Madonna della Salute has worked her magic, and kept me healthy and protected under extreme circumstances, so here is a little prayer to share:

Maria, salute degli infermi, prega per noi.



And remember, when your Republic really gets into trouble there is only one way out: SAY YOU'RE SORRY AND THEN BUILD A SPECTACULAR CHURCH GRAND ENOUGH TO CATCH THE EYE OF THE MADONNA OR JESUS CHRIST! It works! 

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat -The Venice Blog

Saturday, November 16, 2013

GONDOLAS 4 ALL! Arrive at Your Hotel by Gondola


(Venice, Italy) There are many ways to arrive at the entrance to watery city of Venice: by airplane, car, bus, boat taxi, cruise ship, train, motorcycle, scooter, bicycle and by foot. But once inside the historic center, there is only one method of transportation that still remains from ancient times: the gondola.
"The Venetian gondola is as free and graceful, in its gliding movement, as a serpent."
That sentence was written by Mark Twain, known as "the father of American literature," in his travel book, The Innocents Abroad, published in 1869, nearly 150 years ago. Samuel Clemens used "Mark Twain" as his pen name -- the cry for a measured river depth of two fathoms -- inspired by his days piloting a steamboat on the Mississippi River. Twain arrived in Venice by rail from Milan, just as the sun was setting. From the end of Chapter XXI:
"'VENICE!'
And sure enough, afloat on the placid sea a league away, lay a great city, with its towers and domes and steeples drowsing in a golden mist of sunset."

The Grand Canal of Venice by Eduord Manet (1875)
Back then, before the age of motors, the gondola was the only way visitors could move around the waters of the lagoon. After his initial disappointment upon boarding a gondola at the train station, Twain swiftly changed his mind:
"I began to feel that the old Venice of song and story had departed forever. But I was too hasty. In a few minutes we swept gracefully out into the Grand Canal, and under the mellow moonlight the Venice of poetry and romance stood revealed. Right from the water's edge rose long lines of stately palaces of marble; gondolas were gliding swiftly hither and thither and disappearing suddenly through unsuspected gates and alleys; ponderous stone bridges threw their shadows athwart the glittering waves. 

Illustration from The Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain
There was life and motion everywhere, and yet everywhere there was a hush, a stealthy sort of stillness, that was suggestive of secret enterprises of bravoes and of lovers; and clad half in moonbeams and half in mysterious shadows, the grim old mansions of the Republic seemed to have an expression about them of having an eye out for just such enterprises as these at that same moment. Music came floating over the waters--Venice was complete."

View from the steps of the train station
These days, when you arrive in Venice from the train station, the initial impression is even more chaotic than in Twain's time. The train stops after making the journey across the lagoon, rattling across the causeway that links Venice to the mainland. You gather your bags, and wheel them through the bustle of the station, through jostling crowds and distorted announcements blaring over the loud speaker. You walk out the door of the station, arrive at the top of the stairs and, instead of a vista of four-wheeled vehicles on paved roads, you are greeted by hordes of people sprawled across steps, or rushing to the station, the loud grind of the water buses called vaporetti banging to a stop out on the Grand Canal, the jockeying the boat taxis and the Alilaguna boat from the airport, and, finally a vision of... water. It can be a bit unsettling.

Venice has been compared to Disneyland, but I like to call it the Magic Kingdom. And the best way to begin your journey into this mysterious city would be to follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain, and take a gondola to your hotel: "It was a beautiful picture--very soft and dreamy and beautiful." This is a service that used to exist, but like many things in life, gradually faded from memory.

French travel ad by Hugo d'Alesi (1899)

Then, recently on Trip Advisor, someone asked if it could be done -- if they could take a gondola from the train station to the Bauer Hotel on the opposite side of town. First there was the usual chorus of nays -- one "designation expert" said he "loathed" gondolas! Another said that there was no gondola station at the train station, a statement I knew to be false. 

However, there were also plenty of people who were supportive, including yours truly -- I confess to being an old-fashioned romantic. I thought, what a great idea! Why not? If you are a regular reader of Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog, you will know that I have worked with the gondoliers in the past. I presented the request to them, and at first they, too, said no. I asked, "Why? Centuries ago you picked people up at their palace and dropped them off at the casino. Why not now?"

Apparently the problem is that these days gondoliers must begin and end their trip from the same point otherwise "we will fight everyday," as one gondolier told me. So, even though the gondoliers at the train station could transport people to another location, they would have to return empty so as not to intrude on another gondolier's territory. I said, "Well, I would pay extra to arrive at my hotel by gondola, and I'm sure other people would, too." So, together, we decided to try an experiment and see if there is an interest in this service.

Gondola Station at Santa Lucia, the Venice Train Station
First off, there is, indeed, a gondola station at the train station, it's just that these days there is so much chaos it gets lost in the sea of modernity. But if you look just to the right of the Scalzi Bridge, you will see it. If you begin your journey from that entrance to the Magic Kingdom, you will enter an enchanted world only visible to a certain few. From Mark Twain:
"...We sit in the cushioned carriage-body of a cabin, with the curtains drawn, and smoke, or read, or look out upon the passing boats, the houses, the bridges, the people, and enjoy ourselves much more than we could in a buggy jolting over our cobble-stone pavements at home. This is the gentlest, pleasantest locomotion we have ever known."

 
These days there are no curtains on the gondola (maybe we should bring that back, too:), and the horse and buggy have transformed into motorized traffic jams, but otherwise the experience remains the same. The gondola is an ancient method of transportation that still exists today, a boat created specifically to navigate the waters of the Venetian lagoon. The gondola is a transport to a world of enchantment.
"...I am afraid I study the gondolier's marvelous skill more than I do the sculptured palaces we glide among. ... His attitude is stately; he is lithe and supple; all his movements are full of grace. When his long canoe, and his fine figure, towering from its high perch on the stern, are cut against the evening sky, they make a picture that is very novel and striking to a foreign eye."


The gondoliers at the train station insisted that I take the trip before I wrote about it so I would see how enchanting their particular route was. So I took it on my way to the artist Ludovico De Luigi's opening, and arrived in Campo San Moisè just about 6:45PM after the leaving the train station a little after 6:00PM.  

I snuggled into a blanket and relaxed into the cushioned seat. We crossed the Grand Canal and headed down a small side canal, eavesdropping on the conversations of the passersby, and peeking into windows. It was so quiet, all you could hear was the oar dipping into the water and the church bells ring at 6:15. After about 20 minutes, we burst out onto the Grand Canal, the Rialto Bridge majestic in the distance, then back down a small canal past some of the most prestigious locales in Venice, including the house where Mozart once stayed. The route was as Mark Twain described: "It was a beautiful picture--very soft and dreamy and beautiful."


The gondoliers decided that the price for this service would be €140 during the low season to go from the train station to a hotel near San Moise, the campo where the Bauer Hotel is located, and €160 during the high season.The price to arrive at the front water door of the hotels located on the Grand Canal in that part of town -- the Monaco, the Bauer Palazzo, the Europa Regina, the Gritti Palace, etc. -- would be €180 during the low season and €200 during high season simply because the journey is longer, and the gondoliers must go back empty to the train station. For hotels like the Aman Canal Grande which are closer to the train station, the price would be less, and for hotels like the Danieli, which are very far, the price would be much more, if not exorbitant. High season is during Daylight Savings Time and low season is Standard Time. The price is per gondola for up to four -- not six -- people, since there must be room for the luggage. And all of that information is subject to change, since this is a new experiment.

The gondoliers can also take you to your hotel if you arrive in Piazzale Roma by land taxi, car or bus because there is a gondola station there, too.

Rio dei Mendicati, Venice by John Singer Sargent (1899)
If you would like to join us in this experiment, to make a reservation, email gondolas4all@gmail.com. The gondoliers and their friend, Giorgia, are handling that email. Be prepared to tell them your time of arrival. You will then be given a phone number to call in case your train is late, or there is inclement weather. Gondolas travel in all types of weather, during the entire year, but in the case of acqua alta (high water) or heavy rain, other arrangements will be made. Payment is in cash, in euro, upon disembarking. If you are late without calling them, you will lose your gondola and have to wait for the next available one instead of having your watery chariot waiting to whisk you away upon arrival.

As I say, this is a new experiment, so there are bound to be some kinks that need to be worked out, but for those of us who believe in imagination and wonder, there is no better entrance into Venice than by gondola.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Friday, November 8, 2013

First International Mask Contest - Venice Carnival 2014 - DEADLINE JANUARY 15, 2014

Mask by Kartaruga - as seen in Eyes Wide Shut
*[UPDATE March 5, 2014: CLICK HERE TO SEE THE WINNING MASKS]

(Venice, Italy) The theme of Venice Carnival 2014 is, in Italian: LA NATURA FANTASTICA, which they have translated to: WONDER AND FANTASY NATURE on the official Carnevale di Venezia site. Usually I can understand what they are trying to say, but this one had me stumped. I am going to translate it to: THE FANTASY OF NATURE, but, perhaps, we English speakers should use the Italian this time.

Alberto Sarria Masks - Photo: Christine Zenino
If I understand correctly, Venice will be transformed into a magical forest inhabited by wondrous and fanciful creatures just like the animals in myths, fables and fairy tales. The phoenix, the bird that rises from the ashes (always a good theme for Venice:), Leda's Swan (who was actually Zeus so he could seduce her) and Daphne's Laurel Tree, (lovingly tended to by Apollo), are some examples they offer, though I wonder how many Americans are familiar with these myths. If not, preparing for Carnival in Venice is an excellent reason to acquaint yourself with some myths from other parts of the world. 

Alberto Sarria Masks
They also suggest: "Fantasy animals like the White Lion, the Werewolf Night, the Red Dragon; or more ironic and snarky representations of Donkeys, Rabbits, Foxes, Roosters and any other animals which are featured in international popular culture anthropomorphic irony." (I want to know who taught them the word "snarky.":)

From the official Carnival of Venice website:

"Humankind has always felt the need to narrate the mystery of nature through fairy tales. Global cultures, first in the shape of myths, then in an anthropomorphic shape in the world fairy-tale tradition, deploy an endless wealth of symbols and characters to describe the creation and the origin of life, the atmospheric elements, vegetable beings and animal creatures.

The East and the West, Asia and Oceania, the Americas and Europe, Africa: in this fairy-tale Carnival, masks will be inspired by traditional European fairy tales, Arabian and Middle-Eastern short stories, the votive symbols of African and Mesoamerican cultures, Indian, Mongolian and Cathay allegories."


Masks by Kartaruga
I LOVE this theme, and am looking forward to living in a Fairytale Forest come February. Apparently in addition to Piazza San Marco, even the major campos will be transformed into forests with real trees and plants, each campo ruled by a fantasy animal.

Russia - Vasilisa the Beautiful
Just imagine: you can be Little Red Riding Hood or the Big Bad Wolf. Alice in Wonderland or the White Rabbit. I think you could probably even be Dorothy or the Cowardly Lion. Or one of those horrid flying monkeys that kidnapped Toto. And, of course, there must be dragons! (Hhhhmmm... I wonder if the dog would consider dressing up as a small unicorn...)

I'll bet the Germans will arrive with some great ideas inspired by all those Grimm Brothers fairy tales, or the Danish with Hans Christian Anderson. Then we have the exotic worlds further East with the Armenians and the Chinese and the Japanese and Iran and Arabia and 1001 Nights and flying carpets. And Russia! And Africa! And Pakistan! And South America! And American Indians! And real Indians! And Antarctica! And Australia! And everybody everywhere! Think of all the possibilities!

Masks by Kartaruga
With all that in mind, a prestigious group of Venetian mask makers have gotten together to create the FIRST INTERNATIONAL SPECIAL MASK MAKING AWARD, La Maschera del Carnevale di Venezia, given out at the Venice Carnival. There will be three special prizes; the top prize is a week-long trip to Venice during the Regata Storica in September [UPDATE December 8, 2013: apparently it is now a two-day long trip], in addition to other perks and bonuses. I am telling you now so you can start thinking about what kind of handmade mask you want to create based on the theme La Natura Fantastica. The rules are not posted yet, but the deadline is going to be January 15, 2014, and you will have to send a photo and the story of the mask you have created. Carnival always recognizes the best costumes, but this will be the first time for the best MASK with the strong support of the Compagnia dei Mascareri veneziani. Hopefully it will help visitors to Venice better understand the art of mask making, and the difference between the inferior mass-produced masks found all over town, and the far superior handmade masks created by professional mask makers.

HERE IS THE LINK TO THE OFFICIAL CARNIVAL OF VENICE SITE which you should keep checking to see the rules. They say they should be posted in a few days, but I wanted to give you Venetian Cat - Venice Blog readers a head's up. I'll update this post when there is more information.

Masks by La Bottega dei Mascareri - Photo: Cat Bauer
Also, I wrote an article entitled A Brief History of Mask Making way back in 2001 for the International Herald Tribune's Italian supplement, Italy Daily (which no longer exists) in which I excerpted in a post I wrote way back on March 7, 2008 that you can read here about the originals of mask wearing in Venice.

The Venice Carnival will run from February 15 to March 4, 2014.

 La Bottega dei Mascarer in Eyes Wide Shut
Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Friday, November 1, 2013

All Saint's Day and Ludovico De Luigi's Great Day

Surrealistic Carnival by Ludovico De Luigi
(Venice, Italy) All Saint's Day was spectacular today, with lots of sunshine, perfect temperature - mid 60s - and throngs of people journeying out to the Island of San Michele, Venice's cemetery island, to wash the dust off the ancestors and make them sparkle with fond memories and love. The island is like a giant Christmas tree, each tomb a colorful ornament blooming with flowers and twinkling with candles. It's a Venetian family outing, the younger generations traveling across the lagoon and across the ether to awaken Nonna and Nonno, tucked peacefully under the cypress trees, for an Earthly reunion.

View of San Michele by Johan Richter (1665-1745)
The energy this year is very different from last. Last year, we will remember that the East Coast of the United States of America was ravaged by Hurricane Sandy, and Venice was drowning with acqua alta. From October 31, 2012:

All Hallows' Eve - All Saints' Day - All Souls' Day - Venice Blog


I stumbled upon a poignant essay by Susan Allen Toth written in 1993 for the New York Times about her visit to San Michele, which you can read here. Even though she wrote it 20 years ago, it's basically the same experience these days.

Photo: Giovanni Dall'Orto
"...Used to the lichen-covered gray tombstones of English churchyards or the numbingly identical rows of white markers in many American cemeteries, I was unprepared for what lay before me: a tumult of color and an astonishing variety of monuments. Because each grave is ordinarily less than 12 years old, there are often survivors to care for it. Not a stone seemed unadorned. Although a few vases held artificial flowers, most were abloom with fresh bouquets, from yellow daisies to red roses to lavish mixtures of carnations, mums and gladiolus.
... As we walked closer, I could see that each gravestone held a glassed-in large photograph of the deceased. Suddenly the cemetery seemed, in a strange reversal, alive with people who were embodied in their stones. It was impossible not to want to pause at each one, study the picture, absorb the inscription and dates of birth and death, and pay homage to the person."

LUDOVICO DE LUIGI'S GREAT DAY


  
Throughout the years, I have had some wild adventures with the artist, Ludovico De Luigi. There was a point in time when we would speak on the phone nearly every morning, philosophizing, before we began our work day, painting and writing. Ah, those were the days! Life in Venice was so much more pleasant before the Americans doubled the size of the military base in Vicenza and caused all sorts of havoc here in town. 

Ludovico will be 80-years-old on November 11, 2013, and he still has the energy of a man 30 years younger. On Wednesday, October 30, his exhibition, Mostra antologica, opened at the Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa -- what Ludovico said was the mayor's birthday gift to him. And it did seem like most of the town was there to celebrate Ludovico's long creative life. 

Photo: Matilde Margot
I remember back when Ludovico was a wee lad of 74, and he had a love affair with a much younger American woman -- who then had a love affair with Massimo Cacciari, the then-Mayor of Venice. Cacciari had been foolishly introduced to the American by Ludovico himself. 

Ludovico became mad with jealousy. He began stalking the mayor. They were like two planets colliding! Volcanoes erupting! God, it was fun!

Punta della Dogana by Ludovico De Luigi
Once Cacciari gave a lecture at the Church of San Vidal about Adam and Eve, and Ludovico sat in the front row, dragging me next to him. Immediately after Cacciari stopped speaking, Ludovico murmured to me, "That man has a brilliant mind," then grabbed the microphone and demanded that Cacciari answer a question -- I wish I could remember what it was, but it was provocative. I watched Cacciari hesitate for 2 seconds, and then say, "I will take all the questions first, and then answer them together at the end." Ha!

It was wonderful to see so many Venetians come to pay their respects to the Maestro. Ludovico was clearly having a ball, with Anny Carraro documenting the entire show, as always.

Ludovico's show runs through December 1st.

Ludovico De Luigi
Mostra antologica
Curated by Enzo di Martino

October 31 to December 1, 2013
Wednesday thru Sunday
10:30AM to 5:30PM

Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa
Galleria di Piazza San Marco, 71/c
Venezia
info@bevilacqulamasa.it
www.bevilacqualamasa.it
+39 041-520-7797

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

ROLEX ARTS WEEKEND - Mentors & Protégés in Venice at the Giorgio Cini Foundation

Film mentor Walter Murch with protege Sara Fgaier Photo: ©Rolex / Bart Michiels
This post was updated April, 2026

(Venice, Italy) If Rolex ran the world, how much more pleasant life would be. It was a great honor and privilege to attend the second day of the ROLEX ARTS WEEKEND at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini on Sunday, featuring mentors and their protégés. To give you an idea of the quality of artists in attendance, by serendipity, later that evening I would find myself at the same dinner table as Academy Award winning editor and sound designer Walter Murch and his protégé Sara Fgaier, seated right next to Cindy Sherman, one of the world's most renowned contemporary artists.

"The Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative is a philanthropic programme that was set up in 2002 to make a contribution to global culture. The programme seeks out gifted young artists from all over the world and brings them together with artistic masters for a year of creative collaboration in a one-to-one mentoring relationship.

In keeping with its tradition of supporting individual excellence, Rolex gives emerging artists time to learn, create and grow.

Over the past decade, Rolex has paired mentors and protĂ©gĂ©s in dance, film, literature, music, theatre, visual arts and – as of 2012 – architecture. In the decade since it was launched, the mentoring programme has evolved into an enriching dialogue between artists of different generations, cultures and disciplines, helping ensure that the world’s artistic heritage is passed on to the next generation.

Architecture mentor Kazuyo Sejima with protege Yang Zhao
The language of the weekend was English, and we were herded around the Cini by very pretty, long-haired (mostly blonde) young women dressed in elegant grey dress suits with matching heels and spicy kerchiefs draped around their necks -- I thought they were Swiss, but it turned out they were all Venetian from Venice and the Veneto. 

The afternoon kicked off at 3pm with Speed Talks, informal conversations between the protégés and guests of their choice from a different art form than their own, which lasted exactly 12 minutes. Emma Gladstone, who was emceeing the weekend, called it a "Cruel Game," and we soon learned why: after 12 minutes the mikes cut off and the lights went down, no matter if the speaker was in the middle of a divine revelation. It was a brilliant way to regulate the time, and should be implemented at the Academy Awards. My friend pointed out, "After all, it is Rolex."

 
Dance protege Eduardo Fukushima with mentor Lin Hwai-min Photo: Rolex / Ambroise Tézenas
The protĂ©gĂ©s were no mere beginners, but established artists in their own right from all over the planet, ready to be lifted to the next level with the assistance of their mentors. 


Rolex has not provided photos of the talks, and we could not take any, but first up was Chinese architecture protégé Yang Zhao, who has a Masters in architecture from Harvard Graduate School of Design, in addition to his own practice, Zhabyang Studio. Zhao chose to speak to Taiwanese dance mentor Lin Hawi-min -- the protégés were not required to speak to a participating mentor; apparently they could pick the brain of any agreeable genius. Lin Hwai-min (who is witty and whimsical, and has spent a lot of time in the US) is hailed as Asia's premier choreographer, whose masterpiece, Legacy, the first theatrical presentation of the history of Taiwan, coincidentally premiered on December 16, 1978, the day that President Jimmy Carter announced the end of diplomatic ties between the U.S. and Taipei.


Lin Hawi-min reminded us: "Before I was a dancer, I was first a writer who grew up in the 60s. Back then, we really believed that young people could make a difference." He said that even though their language was Chinese, they were speaking in English, which was awkward, although both he and Yang Zhao seemed to be comfortably fluent. Lin Hawi-min presents the same program wherever he performs, whether it is London, New York City, Moscow, or Chinese peasants in the countryside, many whom have never seen contemporary dance before. "There is no bad audience, but bad performances."

Next, Lin Hawi-min's protégé, dancer and choreographer, Eduardo Fukushima, a Brazilian with mixed Italian and Japanese ancestry, spoke to the cultural theorist, Homi K. Bhabha because he "liked the way his mind worked." From Wikipedia:
Homi K. Bhabha (born 1949) is the Anne F. Rothenberg Professor of English and American Literature and Language, and the Director of the Humanities Center at Harvard University. He is one of the most important figures in contemporary post-colonial studies, and has coined a number of the field's neologisms and key concepts, such as hybridity, mimicry, difference, and ambivalence. Such terms describe ways in which colonised peoples have resisted the power of the coloniser, according to Bhabha's theory.
Fukushima asked if Bhabha was busy enough at Harvard, and Bhabha joked, "I feel like I'm being questioned for tenure!" During the conversation, he gave us a nugget: "A great work of art is impossible to forget because it's difficult to remember."

Literature protege Naomi Alderman with mentor Margaret Atwood - Photo: ©Rolex / Bart Michiels
Naomi Alderman was the literary protégé of the esteemed Canadian author, Margaret Atwood. Alderman chose to speak to Cindy Sherman, "widely recognized as among the primary contemporary artists of the past 35 years." From the New York Times:

Cindy Sherman
“She’s undoubtedly one of the most influential artists of our time,” said Eva Respini, associate curator of photography at MoMA, who has spent the last two years organizing Ms. Sherman’s retrospective. “She is always addressing issues at the heart of our visual culture. In this world of celebrity makeovers, reality TV and YouTube, here is an artist whose different modes of representation seem truer now than when they were made.”

Commercially she is often credited with taking photography out of a ghetto and putting it on the same firm fine-art footing as painting and sculpture. In May 2011 Mr. [Philippe] SĂ©galot, bidding on behalf of a client, bought a 1981 image in which she posed as a teenage girl. For six months it was the most expensive photograph sold at auction, bringing $3.9 million at Christie’s.  
Sherman and Alderman both like scary things. Alderman spoke about how she created her computer game, Zombie, Run! She was taking a jogging class, and everybody was asked why they were there. Most said the usual: "to be fit," "to lose weight, etc. But one woman said, "I want to escape from the zombie horde," which became the basis of Alderman's smartphone app that you listen to as you jog.

Alderman asked Sherman if she were a feminist, and she replied, "I'm not dogmatic."

Visual arts mentor William Kentridge and protege Mateo Lopez Photo: ©Rolex/Marc Shoul
Columbian artist Mateo Lopez was the protégé of South African artist, William Kentridge, known for his animated films and observations of social injustice.

Photo: Miguel Littin
Lopez spoke to Palestinian filmmaker Annemarie Jacir, who, after studying in the US, returned to Jordan to work, saying it was a privilege to study film in NYC and speak English, which now that made it possible for her to provide jobs for others.

Jacir said that as a Palestinian, she knows there is always another side of the story that people are not being told. "You are rendered invisible. I always look for the other side of the story. What is being presented in the mainstream... you know there is more to the story. I am very anti-border."

After the Speed Talks, which always ended with an "aw" of disappointment from the audience as each speaker was cut off mid-sentence, American film editor Walter Murch and his protégé, Italian Sara Fgaier (the only person who used an interpreter), took the stage. Murch said he chose Fgaier because "she has the magic touch." We watched some of her exquisite skills displayed in The Train to Moscow.

Sara observes while Walter edits Particle Fever Photo: ©Rolex / Bart Michiels
Walter Murch seems to have edited or done sound design for every iconic American film I can remember -- The Godfather trilogy, The Conversation, Apocalypse Now (Academy Award for sound design), The English Patient, The Talented Mr. Ripley, etc. He said that after Lumière brothers discovered film, 13 years went by before filmmakers figured out that you could edit film and make the story more interesting.

Murch had recently edited Particle Fever directed by Mark Levinson about the search for the Higgs boson, "The God Particle," and Fgaier was with him during much of the process (click to read the rave review from Variety). He played a clip of the documentary for us. I found myself moved to tears at the moment the experiment was deemed a success, and thought how incredibly fortunate I was to be watching such a film surrounded by so many brilliant minds on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. 

Next we were free until a concert at 7:15, so I went up the campanile of the Church of San Giorgio to observe the Borges maze while listening to a soundscape on a mini i-Something-or-other, part of Mateo Lopez's art installation. (While I was up there, one of the enormous cruise ships passed by, and I am pleased to report that I had the great pleasure of looking down on the MSC Fantasia, which, although looming over most of the buildings in Venice, is not taller than the campanile:)

When I came down from the tower, it started to rain. Luckily, I had brought an umbrella so I could wander around the Cini Foundation with pleasure. By the time I got to the maze itself, Lopez's art project had been washed away, but I did have the opportunity to challenge the maze alone, accompanied by a divine fireworks display of thunder and lightning.

Late theatre mentor, Patrice ChĂ©reau and protege MichaĹ‚ Borczuch Photo: ©Rolex/Mario Del Curto
Sadly, Patrice Chéreau, the theatre mentor, died less than two weeks before the Rolex Arts Weekend, on October 7th, of lung cancer. His protégé, Michal Borczuch, one of Poland's fascinating new voices, allowed us to peek inside his rehearsal process in the Padiglione delle Capriate. From Wikipedia:
Patrice ChĂ©reau 2 November 1944 – 7 October 2013) was a French opera and theatre director, filmmaker, actor and producer. In France he is best known for his work for the theatre, internationally for his films La Reine Margot and Intimacy, and for his staging of the Jahrhundertring, the centenary Ring Cycle at the Bayreuth Festival in 1976. In 2003 ChĂ©reau served as president of the jury at Cannes.

Music mentor Gilberto Gil and protege Dina El Wedidi Photo: Rolex / Bart Michiels
The concert was inside the Salone degli Arazzi, otherwise known as the Tapestry Room. Dina El Wedidi is from Egypt, and she blew everyone's mind with her voice and compositions, backed by her band. When her mentor, 5-time platinum album Grammy award-winning Brazilian Gilberto Gil, joined her on stage, the audience went wild. It was truly a memorable experience to hear the Egyptian music combined with the Brazilian. The man is 71-years-old and he has the energy of a teenager! Gil remarked how much the Egyptians had to teach us. From Wikipedia:
Gilberto Passos Gil Moreira (born June 26, 1942), better known as Gilberto Gil, is a Brazilian singer, guitarist, and songwriter, known for both his musical innovation and political commitment. From 2003 to 2008, he served as Brazil's Minister of Culture in the administration of President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva. Gil's musical style incorporates an eclectic range of influences, including Rock music, Brazilian genres including samba, African music, and reggae.

Photo: ©Rolex / Bart Michiels
After that we "ate our way to dinner" as one fellow put it. Plate after plate of Venetian appetizers swept past us as we sipped prosecco or a spritz, and strolled to Cenacolo Palladiano, Palladio's Refectory, for dinner. The inside was spectacular, rows of round tables that seated ten, adorned with white-rose centerpieces. The facsimile of Veronese's magnificent Wedding at Cana towered in the background -- which I have written about before:

Palladio’s Refectory - Unveiling of the Restoration


I only knew one other person at the weekend, and I could not find him, so I decided to pick a table at random and see who I ended up seated next to at dinner, a game I like to play. I was one of the first people inside, so I chose a table close to the back, occupied only by an elderly couple, and aligned myself with a good view of the Wedding at Cana. I went to get some food from the buffet before it got too crowded, and left my purse and bag at the table to hold my place. I found myself on line next to Walter Murch, and I told him that his film made me cry. When I got back to the table, I discovered that someone had moved me three seats to the right, so I could no longer see the Wedding at Cana. I scolded the fellow, and he went away; I realized much later that it was the theatre director, Peter Sellars(!).

Pietro Marcello
I sat down and began to eat, and was happily surprised to see that Walter Murch and Sara Fgaier were seated at the same table. A blond woman arrived with a plate of food and sat down next to me. I slowly realized that it was Cindy Sherman. We ended up having a great time, chatting about our exes and other girlie stuff. I adored her! She has the great ability to cocoon her innocence and humanity while confronting extreme subjects, and that is not easy to do.

Sara's partner, the director Pietro Marcello, was seated next to Cindy, and he informed us that he used to be the guardian of the island of San Clemente here in Venice before they restored it and turned it into a hotel.

Now, everybody in Venice knows that island -- which used to an be an asylum for the mentally disturbed -- is haunted, so you can imagine how wacky Pietro is to live out there for a year. And Cindy Sherman is definitely not normal, THANK GOD.

Walter passed around a basket of Editorial Fortune Cookies. Mine read:
Bach said, when his organ-playing was admired by a pupil: "It's just a matter of striking the right notes at exactly the right moment. The organ does the rest."

Cindy exclaimed,"but Bach wrote the music!"

Of course he did. I love Bach, and believe he was divinely inspired. Yet man did create the organ, and Bach did write down the music. No matter how loudly heaven plays the song, we humans still need props to hear it.

It felt so good to be around kindred spirits after being starved for conversation for such a long time. Pietro said that Venice is suffocating, and he is absolutely right. If it weren't for the Giorgio Cini Foundation and La Biennale opening up the windows and bringing in enlightened creatures like these on a regular basis, the balance of the entire planet would be more lopsided than it already is.

Thank you, Rolex!

Click to go to the Rolex Mentors & Protégés Journal.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
The Venice Gazette
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Sponsored Post - Romance of Italy


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Also of interest: 
 
Harriet Green: Turning around Thomas Cook