Saturday, December 14, 2013

St. Lawrence Comes Home - Venetian Heritage & Save Venice Inc. Restore Chapel

The Martydom of St. Lawrence by Titian (1548-59) 
(Venice, Italy) The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence by Titian has got to be one of the most beautifully restored paintings I've ever seen. Titian is my all-time favorite artist, and the Martirio di San Lorenzo, now estimated to be worth 50 million euros, was called “the most beautiful night scene in all of painting" by Giovanni C.F. Villa, curator of the spectacular Titian exhibit this past spring at the Quirinal Palace’s scuderie in Rome. When you see the painting you will understand why all the superlatives. Titian uses amazing tricks of light to illustrate the bravery of St. Lorenzo captured in the moment of being roasted alive by the Romans. 


On Thursday, December 12, 2013, the altarpiece was presented in all its glory back home here in Venice in the newly-restored St. Lawrence Chapel inside the church of Santa Maria Assunta (called "I Gesuiti"). The funding to restore the painting itself came from the Bank of Alba -- St. Lawrence happens to be the patron saint of the Piedmont town. After a year-long restoration bNicola Restauri S.r.l. di Aramengo, closely supervised by the Superintendence of Venice, the altarpiece was then on display in Alba from May 2012. The painting came back to Venice for a brief show at the Accademia (December 21, 2012 to February 24, 2013), then moved to Rome for the Titian extravaganza (March 5 to June 16, 2013) where the 15-foot high painting held a place of honor -- C.F. Villa said it would be worth going to the exhibition just to see the St. Lawrence. So, the painting has been on the road for more than two years, and is finally back home in its freshly spruced-up chapel.


Photo: Venetian Heritage
The restoration of the chapel was sponsored by Save Venice Inc. and the Boston Chapter of Save Venice Inc.Venetian Heritage, and Co. New Tech, Venezia restoration firm. Titian's painting has been reinstalled with financial support from Azienda Special Palaexpo Scuderie del Quirinale. There has also been a superb lighting system put in place that dramatically illuminates the painting. 


Photo: Venetian Heritage
If you are a Venice aficionado you will know that the collaboration between Venetian Heritage and Save Venice is an event in itself. Long ago, when I wrote for the International Herald Tribune's Italy Daily, the scholars at Save Venice provided much research and raw data, so it was nice to watch everything come together in front of Titian's masterpiece.

I have read in several places that Titian painted the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence specifically for the St. Lawrence Chapel in the Church of the Gesuiti. This is not true. Titian was born in about 1485 and died in 1576; it took him more than ten years to paint the St. Lawrence (1548-59) for the funeral chapel of Lorenzo Massolo in the original Church of the Crociferi

Ignazio di Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits, first came to Venice in 1523 on his way to Jerusalem. He returned to Venice in 1535 with a group of friends, and it was here in the lagoon that the Jesuits -- the Soldiers of God -- were ordained priests.  Loyola died in 1556 at the age of 64. 



The Jesuits did not acquire the Church of Santa Maria Assunta until 1657, after the Order of the Crucifers, who built the original church in 1155, were suppressed. (The Jesuits themselves have been expelled from Venice on more than one occasion.) Work to redo the church in the ornate fashion we see today began in 1715; the church was consecrated in 1728. So, it was the Jesuits who were responsible for the ornate decoration, which was paid for by the Manin family, whose tombs are inside, and whose coat of arms is over the door. And it was the Jesuits who relocated Titian's The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence into the first chapel on the left in new church in the 18th century. 


Photo: Venetian Heritage
The most remarkable decoration of the interior is the inlaid marble designed to look like Damask fabric.


According to Nick Squires at The Telegraph, the restoration revealed that Titian, wily artist that he was, painted himself into the scene wearing a turban, apparently to attract the charms of Elisabetta Querini, the wife of one of his patrons. 

Marco Loredan, a descendent of one of Venice's oldest families, was at the presentation on behalf of his brother, Francesco, who is an advisor for Fondazione Venetian Heritage Onlus and was unable to attend, and -- more importantly -- because the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence is Marco's favorite Titian -- he is passionate about the painting. Marco is a great ambassador for his city; he really loves Venice, and is a true gentleman. We both agreed that Titian was centuries ahead of his time, and that the restoration was brilliant -- before, the painting had been nearly black. 

The more I think about it, it really is amazing that there is a 50 million euro Titian masterpiece inside the Gesuiti church!

After the presentation we stepped outside into the dreamy Venetian mist and proclaimed that Venice remains the most magical city on earth. 




Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Sunday, December 8, 2013

Strut Your Stuff in Piazza San Marco - Venice International Mask Contest - UPDATE

Sekhmet - Egyptian Lioness Goddess of War & Healing
(Venice, Italy) Sekhmet was Upper Egypt's warrior goddess, as well as the goddess of fire, vengeance, healing and medicine, so she was one busy lady. She has the head of a lioness, wearing the solar disc and Egyptian cobra called an uraeus, and has the title "The One Before Whom Evil Trembles." Sekhmet is an example of a face mask you could create for the Venice Carnival 2014, La Natura Fantastica, which is open to "all the artists and artisans coming from everywhere."

A month ago, I initially wrote about the contest, giving details and background. For those of you who missed it, please have a look:

First International Mask Contest - Venice Carnival 2014 - DEADLINE JANUARY 15, 2014

Mask by Kartaruga - as seen in Eyes Wide Shut
The official website has been updated (if you can find it), and once again the English is a challenge to decipher, but I will give it a shot.

1. This is the very First International Face Mask Competition at the Venice Carnival. Venice always has a costume contest, but this contest is sponsored by the Venetian mask-makers, and is solely for the face mask itself.

2. The contest is open to everyone all over the world. You can use any material you like, and any technique you wish. 


Leather macaw mask from Brazil by Marcílio Barrow
3. The theme of this year's Carnival is "La Natura Fantastic," which I described in the post above, which, again, you can read by clicking HERE. So any mask that fits into that theme is acceptable, which is why I thought of Sekhmet -- she has the head of a lioness, which, I suppose is more suitable for a jungle than a forest, but since we are in Venice, and the symbol of Venice is the Lion of San Marco, I thought the Lioness of Egypt was a nice balance. Sekhmet has a sweet counterpart that is not so ferocious named Bastet, who came from Lower Egypt, and has the head of a cat. 


Bastet from Lower Egypt
Goddess of Cats, the Sun & the Moon
 
4. After you make your mask, you must:

          a) take at least three color photos of your creation.
          b) give your mask a title.
          c) write a short description about the material and the technique used to        
              create it, and the cultural and artistic significance of the mask. 


Vintage Chinese Wooden Dragon Mask
5. The deadline to submit your entry is JANUARY 15, 2014. Email your entry to: mascarer@tin.it with a copy to mascheracarnevale@gmail.com


Paper Jiminy Cricket Mask circa 1939
6. The panel of judges will be the Artistic Director of the Venice Carnival, a representative from the Compagnia dei Mascareri and other members of the cultural world. They will choose no more than 20 finalists by JANUARY 31, 2014. 

These finalists will then be responsible for sending their mask, at their own expense, to Venice by February 20, 2014 to the following address:


CONFARTIGIANATO
Castello, San Lio 5653/4
30100 – VENEZIA - ITALIA

Papier Maché Ganesha mask from Nepal
7. And then, CARNIVAL!!! On Monday, March 3, 2014, there will be a Prize Ceremony in the Grand Theater in Piazza San Marco in which all the finalist masks will parade on stage during the Venice Carnival. The creators are welcome to wear their masks during the ceremony, cheered on by thousands of adoring fans, in the greatest drawing room of the world. If the finalists are unable to come to Venice, their mask will be worn by an actor. 

Gran Teatro di Piazza San Marco - Carnevale
8. Out of the 20 or so finalists, three winners will be chosen: the Grand Prize for "La Natura Fantastica," plus two Special Mentions, one for the mask with the best workmanship and material, and another for the best plasticity and facial expression. 

9. The Grand Prize is a two-day stay in Venice for two people during the Regata Storica on September 7, 2014, Venice's water regata of ancient boats and costumes, with a place of honor in the "machina," the grandstand on the water that seats all the VIPs. A visit to a the workshop of Venetian mask-maker is also included.

Regata Storica
The two Special Mentions will also receive a two-day stay in Venice and a visit to a Venetian mask-maker, but not with all the pomp and circumstance of the Regata Storica. The trip must be taken by January 2015.

What is not clear to me is if the prizes include transportation. Since it is Sunday as I write this, there is no one to contact, so, dear readers, I will have to update this once again in the future. 

10. The three top masks will be donated to the City of Venice. The other masks can be collected within 3 months after the Prize Ceremony on March 3, 2014.


For further info:
e- mail mascarer@tin.it and/or mascheracarnevale@gmail.com
phone: + 39 041 5299203

Again, here is the LINK to the page with the instructions if you would like to try to decipher the rules yourselves.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Saturday, November 30, 2013

It's Over - La Biennale Art Exhibition 2013 Ends with a Bang

We sit starving amidst our gold by Jeremy Deller painted by Stuart Sam Huges
for the British Pavilion ENGLISH MAGIC
Photo by Cristiano Corte © British Council
(Venice, Italy) I grew up in a typical all-American small town in New Jersey called Pompton Lakes, which is about an hour outside of New York City. When I was thirteen-years-old, my 8th grade art class went on a field trip to MOMA, the Museum of Modern Art. It was like zipping through a wormhole to another universe where the aliens felt like friends. The art dazzled my mind, and made a permanent impression on my spirit.

The Encyclopedic Palace, the 55th La Biennale International Art Exhibition closed on Sunday, November 24, 2013 after setting many new records for attendance, one of the most impressive being that young people and students represented 31.75% of the total visitors.

VENICE PAVILION /Silk roads.
Yiqing Yin - Photo by Enrico Zilli
Many of you out there do not know what La Biennale in Venice is, and that is understandable. It is sort of like Epcot Center at Disney World in Florida, except it is real. Venice held the very first Biennale on the planet back in 1895. There are national pavilions and other venues, and they are all filled with contemporary art from countries and artists all over the world from the beginning of June to the end of November. The foreign countries own the spaces of the permanent pavilions based in Giardini, which means "Gardens," so there are 30 actual buildings that house the art of each nation sprinkled throughout an enormous park filled with trees and shrubbery; it is like having little Art Embassies based here in Venice. This year there were 88 National Participations. There is no more room in Giardini for more Art Embassies, so the newer nations are based at Arsenale, and at other venues throughout Venice.

This year, Portugal achieved a first by sailing its pavilion
all the way from Lisbon and parking it outside the 
Giardini
The number of countries that wish to join the World of Art grows larger every year -- this year there were 10 countries participating for the first time: Angola, the Bahamas, the Kingdom of Bahrain, the Republic of the Cote d'Ivoire, the Republic of Kosovo, Kuwait, Maldives, Paraguay, Tuvalu (a Polynesian island nation -- I looked that up for you:) and, most incredibly -- The Holy See! Each country has their own system of how they participate. For example, the pavilion of the United States is owned by the Peggy Guggenheim Collection with the approval of the US State Department. Great Britain's pavilion is managed by the British Council. So what we see is Art that has been filtered through the Government. And there are many governments that don't particularly like each other out there on the globe, but here in Venice they must cooperate and be peaceful and get along with each other in order to live in the World of Art.

Danae by Vadim Zakharov
for the Russian Pavilion
Photo: Contessanally
In addition to all the national goings-on, there is a Curator who decides the theme of the Biennale, and invites artists to bring his or her vision alive in the Central Pavilion at Giardini and over at Arsenale, an entirely different venue a short distance away. Arsenale is an enormous "arsenal" where Venice used to build its renowned ships that made her Queen of the Adriatic during her glory days during the Republic -- they could crank out an entire ship in just one day. This year there were 161 artists from 38 countries; the Curator was Massimilian Gioni, and the theme was The Encyclopedic Palace.


Marino Auriti's "Il Encyclopedico Palazzo del Mondo (ca. 1950s)
surrounded J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere's photographs

                   Photo By Francesco Galli, Courtesy la Biennale di Venezia 
In addition to all that, there are Collateral Events which are promoted by international organizations and institutions held in different locations in Venice -- many of which are spectacular private palaces that you would never normally have the opportunity to see.

So, if you think visiting Epcot Center is fun, you should think about coming to Venice specifically to visit La Biennale, especially since contemporary art has become all the rage. Biennale, of course, means once every two years. So in odd number years there is Art Biennale, and in even numbered years there is Architecture Biennale, which is equally astonishing.

       Carl Jung, page from The Red Book, 1914-30
COURTESY THE FOUNDATION OF THE WORK OF C.G. JUNG.
At the press conference, Paolo Baratta, the President of La Biennale said, with his usual wit, "This chapter has come to close with very positive quantitative and qualitative results. Very positive quantitative results are useful, firstly, because they allow us to satisfy those who believe that the task of cultural institutions is increasing hotel reservations -- and this was most certainly the case.

"However, these results are also a sign of a highly significant evolution in terms of quality, our primary concern. Some time ago we began specific research with regard to the people visiting La Biennale to contribute to the critical and cultural enrichment and sophistication of increasingly broad groups of visitors and young people.

"One element stands out," added Baratta. "Those who still only attend la Biennale's more social Vernissage and draw false conclusions must now acknowledge that we recorded more visitors in the three weeks in October than in the opening week. After the opening five days of the exhibition, the yachts all departed and the following six months were characterized by the presence of the backpack crowd. Many of those who came for the pre-opening returned to visit a second and third time; this is another important element, which makes our glorious Vernissage no longer the paradise but the purgatory of super experts in the field."

Photo: La Biennale
The point is that there is a glamour group that zips around the globe by private plane and yacht, attending Art Biennale openings which have sprung up all over the world, drifting from party to party, snatching up contemporary art for investment purposes -- and because it's always fun to hang out with the artists, who are often present. But then, later, there are also the curious, including a good percentage of young people, who come to Biennale and get zapped like I did when I first visited MOMA in NYC 45 years ago.

sarah sze: triple point (gleaner), 2013 US Pavilionphoto: tom powel imaging
Massimiliano Gioni, the Curator said, "The Encyclopedic Palace is an exhibition that tells the impossible desire of knowing and seeing everything: it's an exhibition that collects the adventures, tale and the histories of many individuals that -- often in solitude -- have tried to create a code, an image of the world, that could capture its richness. Many of them -- like Marino Auriti from whom we borrowed the title for this edition of the Biennale -- failed to reach their dreams because they worked in solitude. I had the luck to work with a talented team, with a great institution, with brilliant colleagues and collaborators, with the support of many generous donors, and with so many artists who accepted the invitation to exhibit at the Biennale with great enthusiasm and generosity.

"Therefore, if I was able to build this imaginary museum we call Biennale -- this year's Palazzo Enciclopedico -- I owe it to so many talented fellow adventurers who helped me throughout this journey."

Gioni concluded: "The success of visitors to this edition shows that art is something we do together and is a part of many people's lives."

Photo: Complex Art & Design
One of my favorite pavilions this year was the British's ENGLISH MAGIC by Jeremy Deller. The British seem to have found their sense of humor once again. When I walked in, an eccentric fellow was standing behind a movable counter.

"Have you got some English Magic there?" I asked.

"Indeed. Hold out your hands."

This I did. He placed an strange object in my palms. "That is a Neolithic hand axe dated around 4,000 BCE."

"Really? Wow! Where did they find it?" I could feel the ancient vibrations pulsing through my hands.

"Along the Thames."

"Along the Thames? Just lying around?"

"There are a lot of people who like to walk along the Thames looking for ancient treasures. Would you like to hold another?"

"YES!"

This time the object was shaped like a large arrowhead, with a distinct yellowish color. "That is probably the oldest object you will ever hold in your life," said the fellow. "That is a Lower Palaeolithic hand axe discovered around London. It dates back to 250,000 to 400,000 BCE before we were human beings. It's made of flint and amber."

"Wow. Before we were human. That is magic!"

English Magic by Jeremy Deller on display in the British Pavilion 
Courtesy: British Council. Photo: Simon Grant, Tate
The rest of the British Pavilion was equally entertaining -- they even served tea! That image you see at the very top of this post, We sit starving amidst our gold is described this way in the brochure from the British Council:

In June 2011 Roman Abramovich's 377-foot yacht, Luna, was moored alongside the Giardini quay. It blocked the view for many and a security fence was erected around it, restricting the use of the promenade by locals, tourists and visitors to the Biennale. This act enraged William Morris, the Victorian designer and socialist, who, though long dead, returned as a colossus and threw the yacht into the lagoon. The act is shown with examples of Morris's work, alongside privatisation certificates and coupons from the era following the break-up of the Soviet Union, the accumulation of which became the source of much of the wealth of present-day oligarchs.


Archivio Foto by Cindy Sherman
Photographic Albums
Photo by Francesco Galli
Courtesy by la Biennale di Venezia
It is always a little sad when La Biennale Art closes. This year more than 475,000 visitors attended the exhibition. I predict that in the future the attendance will grow by leaps and bounds as more people find their way into the Magical Mystical World of Art.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Festa of the Madonna della Salute in Venice

The Black Madonna - Panagia Mesopantitisa, Venice - on the Festa della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
The Black Madonna - Panagia Mesopantitisa, Venice - Festa della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
(Venice, Italy) During the fifteen years I've lived in Venice, I have rarely missed the Festa of the Madonna della Salute on November 21. Most of the city, and much of the Veneto, makes the trek over the pontoon bridge from Santa Maria del Giglio next to the Hotel Gritti Palace and over to the Church of the Salute on Punta della Dogna to light a candle (or two or three) so that the Beloved Black Madonna will protect our health.


The plague first struck Venice in 1575. Desperate for relief, in 1577 the Venetian Senate decided to build a church in honor of Christ the Redeemer if God would end the plague. That worked (for a while), and the city of Venice has the magnificent Church of Redentore to show for it.

Church of Redentore - Photo: Cat Bauer venice blog
Church of Redentore - Photo: Cat Bauer
Unfortunately, the plague returned only 55 years later, so Doge Nicolò Contarini and the boys decided to build another church, this time pleading to the Virgin Mary for help. After all, La Serenissima was feminine, and under the Madonna's protection — or so the story goes.

On October 22, 1630, Contarini ordained that the church be built. The 26-year-old architect Baldassare Longhena won the competition to design it. Work started in 1631 and was finished in 1687; it was consecrated in 1681.

Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer venice blog
Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer

Longhena wrote:
"I have created a church in the form of a rotunda, a work of new invention, not built in Venice, a work very worthy and desired by many. This church, having the mystery of its dedication, being dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, made me think, with what little talent God has bestowed upon me of building the church in the ... shape of a crown."
The centerpiece of the awesome Salute Church is the Panagia Mesopantitisa, a very wise Byzantine Black Madonna, who never fails to fill me with deep emotion. The Panagia Mesopantitisa gets all dolled up for the occasion, and puts on her finest jewels. If we understand where she comes from, perhaps we can understand why the Venetians gave her the starring role in such an impressive church.

Madonna della Salute in all her finery - Photo: Cat Bauer
Madonna della Salute in all her finery - Photo: Cat Bauer
The Panagia Mesopantitisa is from Candia, which was a Greek city originally named Chandax on the island of Crete. The Venetians bought the city for strategic purposes back in 1204 after the Fourth Crusade, and colonized the town. They held onto it for 465 years until 1669 after losing the famous War of Candia (1645-1669), a 21-year battle with the Ottoman Turks for possession of Crete.

The city is now named Heraklion, and is again part of Greece, and that is where the Eastern Orthodox Black Madonna named Panagia Mesopantitisa, ‘Madonna the Mediator’ comes from. She was brought to Venice by Doge Francesco Morosini after Candia fell into the clutches of the Ottomans and the Islamic culture. The sacred Christian icon was then given the honor of presiding over the high altar in the new and glorious church built to honor the Mother of Jesus Christ. 

From the Venice Comune:
"The Festa della Salute is probably the least "touristy" of the Venetian festivities and evokes strong religious feelings among the city's inhabitants.

The holiday is, like the Redentore, in memory of another bout of pestilence, which lasted for two years from 1630-31, and the subsequent vow by the Doge to obtain the intercession of the Virgin Mary.

Even today, thousands of inhabitants visit the main altar of the imposing Salute Church on November 21 to give thanks, and a strong symbolic tie remains between the city and the Virgin Mary."
After you buy your candle, you bring it inside the church and hand it to one of the candle lighters -- if left to our own devices, there is a strong possibility we would burn ourselves up given the size of the crowds.

Next I always stand directly in the rose mosaic circle under the enormous chandelier that dangles from  the center of the dome, and get one of my power charges for the year. In the center of the mosaic is a bronze circle engraved with the words Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI, which means "From the origin comes salvation, 1631."

Unde Origo Inde Salus MDCXXXI in Church of Madonna della Salute - Photo: Cat Bauer
The crowd surges against the high altar until the young guards controlling the scene allow everyone to pass. You then wander back through the Sacristy, where you can buy little prayer cards and rosaries and gaze upon precious art by Titian and Tintoretto, and the first Pope John Paul's vestments -- who was, of course, Venetian, and died after only 33 days as Pope. For some reason, seeing the sweet Papa's actual clothes made me teary-eyed.

Wood carving on seat - right
(Those elaborate wooden carvings on the choir stalls behind the high altar were so bizarre I had to take a photo of them.)

Wood carving on seat - left
Then everyone pours back out down the steps and over to the endless stalls of sweets from Sicily and enormous balloons for the kids -- for Festa della Salute is a day when every kid in Venice proudly marches through the city clutching their carefully-chosen balloon.


One great thing about living in a Catholic country is that there are many miracles and lots of White Magic floating through the air, and Venice definitely has its own interpretations and rituals. So far, the Madonna della Salute has worked her magic, and kept me healthy and protected under extreme circumstances, so here is a little prayer to share:

Maria, salute degli infermi, prega per noi.



And remember, when your Republic really gets into trouble there is only one way out: SAY YOU'RE SORRY AND THEN BUILD A SPECTACULAR CHURCH GRAND ENOUGH TO CATCH THE EYE OF THE MADONNA OR JESUS CHRIST! It works! 

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat -The Venice Blog

Saturday, November 16, 2013

GONDOLAS 4 ALL! Arrive at Your Hotel by Gondola


(Venice, Italy) There are many ways to arrive at the entrance to watery city of Venice: by airplane, car, bus, boat taxi, cruise ship, train, motorcycle, scooter, bicycle and by foot. But once inside the historic center, there is only one method of transportation that still remains from ancient times: the gondola.
"The Venetian gondola is as free and graceful, in its gliding movement, as a serpent."
That sentence was written by Mark Twain, known as "the father of American literature," in his travel book, The Innocents Abroad, published in 1869, nearly 150 years ago. Samuel Clemens used "Mark Twain" as his pen name -- the cry for a measured river depth of two fathoms -- inspired by his days piloting a steamboat on the Mississippi River. Twain arrived in Venice by rail from Milan, just as the sun was setting. From the end of Chapter XXI:
"'VENICE!'
And sure enough, afloat on the placid sea a league away, lay a great city, with its towers and domes and steeples drowsing in a golden mist of sunset."

The Grand Canal of Venice by Eduord Manet (1875)
Back then, before the age of motors, the gondola was the only way visitors could move around the waters of the lagoon. After his initial disappointment upon boarding a gondola at the train station, Twain swiftly changed his mind:
"I began to feel that the old Venice of song and story had departed forever. But I was too hasty. In a few minutes we swept gracefully out into the Grand Canal, and under the mellow moonlight the Venice of poetry and romance stood revealed. Right from the water's edge rose long lines of stately palaces of marble; gondolas were gliding swiftly hither and thither and disappearing suddenly through unsuspected gates and alleys; ponderous stone bridges threw their shadows athwart the glittering waves. 

Illustration from The Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain
There was life and motion everywhere, and yet everywhere there was a hush, a stealthy sort of stillness, that was suggestive of secret enterprises of bravoes and of lovers; and clad half in moonbeams and half in mysterious shadows, the grim old mansions of the Republic seemed to have an expression about them of having an eye out for just such enterprises as these at that same moment. Music came floating over the waters--Venice was complete."

View from the steps of the train station
These days, when you arrive in Venice from the train station, the initial impression is even more chaotic than in Twain's time. The train stops after making the journey across the lagoon, rattling across the causeway that links Venice to the mainland. You gather your bags, and wheel them through the bustle of the station, through jostling crowds and distorted announcements blaring over the loud speaker. You walk out the door of the station, arrive at the top of the stairs and, instead of a vista of four-wheeled vehicles on paved roads, you are greeted by hordes of people sprawled across steps, or rushing to the station, the loud grind of the water buses called vaporetti banging to a stop out on the Grand Canal, the jockeying the boat taxis and the Alilaguna boat from the airport, and, finally a vision of... water. It can be a bit unsettling.

Venice has been compared to Disneyland, but I like to call it the Magic Kingdom. And the best way to begin your journey into this mysterious city would be to follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain, and take a gondola to your hotel: "It was a beautiful picture--very soft and dreamy and beautiful." This is a service that used to exist, but like many things in life, gradually faded from memory.

French travel ad by Hugo d'Alesi (1899)

Then, recently on Trip Advisor, someone asked if it could be done -- if they could take a gondola from the train station to the Bauer Hotel on the opposite side of town. First there was the usual chorus of nays -- one "designation expert" said he "loathed" gondolas! Another said that there was no gondola station at the train station, a statement I knew to be false. 

However, there were also plenty of people who were supportive, including yours truly -- I confess to being an old-fashioned romantic. I thought, what a great idea! Why not? If you are a regular reader of Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog, you will know that I have worked with the gondoliers in the past. I presented the request to them, and at first they, too, said no. I asked, "Why? Centuries ago you picked people up at their palace and dropped them off at the casino. Why not now?"

Apparently the problem is that these days gondoliers must begin and end their trip from the same point otherwise "we will fight everyday," as one gondolier told me. So, even though the gondoliers at the train station could transport people to another location, they would have to return empty so as not to intrude on another gondolier's territory. I said, "Well, I would pay extra to arrive at my hotel by gondola, and I'm sure other people would, too." So, together, we decided to try an experiment and see if there is an interest in this service.

Gondola Station at Santa Lucia, the Venice Train Station
First off, there is, indeed, a gondola station at the train station, it's just that these days there is so much chaos it gets lost in the sea of modernity. But if you look just to the right of the Scalzi Bridge, you will see it. If you begin your journey from that entrance to the Magic Kingdom, you will enter an enchanted world only visible to a certain few. From Mark Twain:
"...We sit in the cushioned carriage-body of a cabin, with the curtains drawn, and smoke, or read, or look out upon the passing boats, the houses, the bridges, the people, and enjoy ourselves much more than we could in a buggy jolting over our cobble-stone pavements at home. This is the gentlest, pleasantest locomotion we have ever known."

 
These days there are no curtains on the gondola (maybe we should bring that back, too:), and the horse and buggy have transformed into motorized traffic jams, but otherwise the experience remains the same. The gondola is an ancient method of transportation that still exists today, a boat created specifically to navigate the waters of the Venetian lagoon. The gondola is a transport to a world of enchantment.
"...I am afraid I study the gondolier's marvelous skill more than I do the sculptured palaces we glide among. ... His attitude is stately; he is lithe and supple; all his movements are full of grace. When his long canoe, and his fine figure, towering from its high perch on the stern, are cut against the evening sky, they make a picture that is very novel and striking to a foreign eye."


The gondoliers at the train station insisted that I take the trip before I wrote about it so I would see how enchanting their particular route was. So I took it on my way to the artist Ludovico De Luigi's opening, and arrived in Campo San Moisè just about 6:45PM after the leaving the train station a little after 6:00PM.  

I snuggled into a blanket and relaxed into the cushioned seat. We crossed the Grand Canal and headed down a small side canal, eavesdropping on the conversations of the passersby, and peeking into windows. It was so quiet, all you could hear was the oar dipping into the water and the church bells ring at 6:15. After about 20 minutes, we burst out onto the Grand Canal, the Rialto Bridge majestic in the distance, then back down a small canal past some of the most prestigious locales in Venice, including the house where Mozart once stayed. The route was as Mark Twain described: "It was a beautiful picture--very soft and dreamy and beautiful."


The gondoliers decided that the price for this service would be €140 during the low season to go from the train station to a hotel near San Moise, the campo where the Bauer Hotel is located, and €160 during the high season.The price to arrive at the front water door of the hotels located on the Grand Canal in that part of town -- the Monaco, the Bauer Palazzo, the Europa Regina, the Gritti Palace, etc. -- would be €180 during the low season and €200 during high season simply because the journey is longer, and the gondoliers must go back empty to the train station. For hotels like the Aman Canal Grande which are closer to the train station, the price would be less, and for hotels like the Danieli, which are very far, the price would be much more, if not exorbitant. High season is during Daylight Savings Time and low season is Standard Time. The price is per gondola for up to four -- not six -- people, since there must be room for the luggage. And all of that information is subject to change, since this is a new experiment.

The gondoliers can also take you to your hotel if you arrive in Piazzale Roma by land taxi, car or bus because there is a gondola station there, too.

Rio dei Mendicati, Venice by John Singer Sargent (1899)
If you would like to join us in this experiment, to make a reservation, email gondolas4all@gmail.com. The gondoliers and their friend, Giorgia, are handling that email. Be prepared to tell them your time of arrival. You will then be given a phone number to call in case your train is late, or there is inclement weather. Gondolas travel in all types of weather, during the entire year, but in the case of acqua alta (high water) or heavy rain, other arrangements will be made. Payment is in cash, in euro, upon disembarking. If you are late without calling them, you will lose your gondola and have to wait for the next available one instead of having your watery chariot waiting to whisk you away upon arrival.

As I say, this is a new experiment, so there are bound to be some kinks that need to be worked out, but for those of us who believe in imagination and wonder, there is no better entrance into Venice than by gondola.

Ciao from Venezia,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog