Those Who Drink our Wine Know They Will Never be Betrayed - InOLTRE

(Venice, Italy)  

Those who drink our wine will know that they will never be betrayed.

That powerful statement can be found on the website of Fortesi Winery, and sums up the feeling I got after attending a wine tasting over at Le Bistrot, one of my favorite restaurants in Venice, and one which I have written about before. (The sensual image there at the top is the logo of the Pellegrini Franco Winery.)

Fortesi, Pellegrini Franco and nine other wineries are members of "InOLTRE," an association formed to promote their wines and their region, which is centered around Oltrepò Pavese. From Wikipedia:

The Oltrepò Pavese is the area of the Province of Pavia, in the north-west Italian region of Lombardy, which lies to the south of the river Po. (It is ‘oltre’ (beyond) the Po, when considered from the provincial capital Pavia.)

So, InOLTRE, is sort of like a play on words, meaning "Beyond" -- the eleven members are in it for love, not solely for profit, more like a group of friends. They each don't have a lot of acreage; all their wineries are small, family-run businesses. Sergio Fragiacomo, the owner of Le Bistrot, called them "gentle people."

To me, wine is sacred, a gift from Nature to humanity that allows us to drink the blood of the gods. All very romantic, but what, exactly, is wine? This is from Wikipedia:

Wine is an alcoholic beverage, typically made of fermented grape juice.^[1] The natural chemical balance of grapes is such that they can ferment without the addition of sugars, acids, enzymes or other nutrients.^[2] Wine is produced by fermenting crushed grapes using various types of yeast. Yeast consumes the sugars found in the grapes and converts them into alcohol. Different varieties of grapes and strains of yeasts are used depending on the type of wine being produced....


Wine has a rich history dating back to around 6000 BC and is thought to have originated in areas now within the borders of Georgia and Iran.^[6][7] Wine probably appeared in Europe at about 4500 BC in what is now Bulgaria, and Greece, and was very common in ancient Greece, Thrace and Rome. Wine has also played an important role in religion throughout history. The Greek god, Dionysus, and the Roman equivalent, Bacchus, represented wine, and the drink is also used in Catholic Eucharist ceremonies and the Jewish Kiddush.

Which brings us to Dionysus, the god of wine. Let's look at his heritage. The mother of Dionysus was a mortal, the Theban princess, Semele. His father was none other than Zeus himself. The pregnant Semele asked Zeus if she could see him in all his glory, and, for whatever reason, he agreed. This was a truly strange request because no mortal could see Zeus all geared up in blinding lightening and crackling thunder and live to tell the tale. So, Zeus appeared in All His Glory and predictably sizzled Semele, who was pregnant with Dionysus. Right before Semele died, Zeus grabbed Dionysus and put him inside himself; Dionysus was born six months later and raised by the Nymphs of Nysa, who lived in the sky as a constellation of stars which brought the rain. (I want to thank Maureen O'Sullivan, author of THE GREEK GODS an iconoclast's guide, for putting the story in terms I could understand. I found Maureen's English-language book in a Greek bookshop after I jumped on a boat to Corfu, very late in the season, several years ago.)

That image you see is Titian's Bacchus and Ariadne, and gives us a good idea of the nature of this god. (Bacchus is the Roman name for Dionysus.) Ariadne was the wife of Dionysus, the daughter of King Minos, and granddaughter of Helios, the Sun himself. Ariadne's big claim to fame was that she was the one who helped Thesesus navigate her father's labyrinth where the part-man, part-bull Minotaur lived. The Minotaur was actually Ariadne's half-brother, the product of the union between her mother, Pasiphaë (the daughter of Helios, the Sun), and a white bull sent by Poseidon -- who, let us not forget, was also Zeus' older brother! (All these shenanigans were taking place on Crete, which was ruled by Venice for more than four centuries. I've always thought that we shall find the Minotaur here somewhere in the center of the Venetian labyrinth:) Anyway, Ariadne ended up marrying Dionysus, not Thesesus, and judging by Titian's painting, it seems like they were a fun couple indeed.

So, we've got Ariadne, the Sun's granddaughter, marrying Dionysus, Jupiter's (Zeus) son, who was raised by rain nymphs, and whose mother was of the earth. (And if you think these sort of things do not continue to this day, just remember that on May 16, 2010 Venice herself will marry Neptune aka Poseidon aka the Sea, as she does every year -- another reason not to be too surprised that we find ourselves living in a labyrinth here in Venezia!) THANK GOODNESS THAT DIONYSUS GAVE MANKIND THE GIFT OF WINE TO HELP US MAKE SENSE OF IT ALL! That is why I say that wine (red in particular) is the blood of the gods.

To me, the group of wineries who have joined together to form InOLTRE seemed to carry the divine spirit of the grape with them to the wine tasting over at Le Bistrot. Their own words, below, are sort of like their mission statement (in Italian with a Google translation, slightly edited):

InOLTRE is the name of a free association of producers, determined to join forces and their own realities to make wines of increasing quality, spread knowledge and improve their image.

Ci incontriamo per assaggiare e confrontare i nostri vini, scambiandoci idee, suggerimenti e critiche propositive.  

We meet to sample and compare our wines, exchange ideas, suggestions and critique proposals.  

Discutiamo i cambiamenti del mondo enologico e le nostre personali convinzioni, perché le opinioni di ognuno possano uscire rafforzate o corrette dal confronto.  

We discuss the changes in the wine world and our personal beliefs because the opinions of each member is reinforced or corrected by comparison.  

Ciascuno è orgoglioso della propria identità aziendale, ma è anche consapevole di poterla evolvere in meglio, percorrendo insieme una strada che ha la sua linea maestra nella fantasia, nell'amore e nel rispetto per il proprio lavoro.  

Everyone is proud of their corporate identity, but also conscious of being able to evolve for the better, walking along a road that has its central vein in fantasy, love and respect for their work.

Per questo partecipiamo uniti a fiere e manifestazioni, cercando di proporci come esempio del nostro territorio.  

That is why we participate in fairs and events together, trying to be an example of our territory.

InOLTRE , dopo sei anni, rappresenta molto di più della somma delle aziende associate.  

InOLTRE, after six years, represents much more than the sum of the member companies.

InOLTRE rappresenta la voce di chi non accetta più una cattiva fama, per troppo tempo tollerata e sofferta, di chi con grande serietà e determinazione, produce vini per il più esigente mercato, di chi si sente assolutamente con le carte in regola per confrontarsi con la concorrenza  

InOLTRE represents the voice of those who will no longer accept a bad reputation that has been tolerated and endured for too long, who, with great earnestness and determination, produce wines for the most demanding markets, those who absolutely have the right cards to deal with the competition.

 
InOLTRE è territorio. InOLTRE sono i vigneti. InOLTRE è storia, tradizione, opera di generazioni.  

InOLTRE is territory. InOLTRE is our vineyards. InOLTRE is the history, tradition, the work of generations.

InOLTRE sono i figli che non hanno abbandonato l'attività dei padri, che hanno saputo conservare un bene legato al territorio, dove la natura è stata generosa.  

InOLTRE is our children who have not abandoned the work of the fathers, who have managed to preserve good ties to the territory, where nature has been generous.  

InOLTRE è tecnologia, innovazione, impegno nella ricerca e apertura ai nuovi mercati, facendo onore alla tradizione.

InOLTRE is technology, innovation, commitment to research and opening new markets, honoring the tradition.

InOLTRE è impegno, capacità, investimenti, qualità dei prodotti, vini eccellenti.  

InOLTRE is a commitment, capacity, investment, product quality, excellent wines.
InOLTRE è “movimento” di rivalutazione dell'imprenditorialità locale.  

InOLTRE is "movement" a revaluation of local entrepreneurship.

InOLTRE sono le aziende che lo compongono che pur mantenendo la loro unicità, si trovano unite in azioni ed iniziative manageriali, produttive, di immagine e comunicazione.  

InOLTRE is also the companies that compose it while maintaining their uniqueness; they are united in actions and initiatives in managerial, production, image and communication.

To learn more about this beautiful and fascinating region, and the wines they produce, you can visit the InOLTRE website:

Click to visit InOLTRE:
http://www.inoltre-po.it/

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Fratelli Agnes – Rovescala (PV) – Via Campo del Monte, 1 – 27040 – tel./fax +39.0385.75206
Sito internet:www.fratelliagnes.it

Bellaria – Casteggio (PV) – Via Castel del Lupo, 28 – Loc. Mairano – 27045 – tel./fax +39.0383.83203
Sito internet:www.vinibellaria.it

Fortesi – Rovescala (PV) – Frazione Cà Nova, 4 – 27040 – tel. +39.0385.75093 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0385.75093      end_of_the_skype_highlighting - fax +39.0385.756076
Sito internet: www.fortesi.com

Le Fracce – Casteggio (PV) – Via Castel del Lupo, 5 – Loc. Mairano - 27045 – tel. +39.0383.82526 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0383.82526      end_of_the_skype_highlighting – fax +39.0383.894151
Sito internet: www.le-fracce.it

Marco Vercesi – Montù Beccaria (PV) – Frazione Crosia, 1 – 27040 – tel. +39.0385.61330 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0385.61330      end_of_the_skype_highlighting

Martilde – Rovescala (PV) – Frazione Croce, 4 – 27040 – tel./fax +39.0385.756280
Sito internet: www.martilde.it

Pellegrini Franco – Stradella (PV) – Località Solinga, 15 – 27049 – tel./fax +39.0385.88305

Picchioni Andrea – Canneto Pavese (PV) – Frazione Camponoce, 4 – 27044 – tel. +39.0385.262139 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0385.262139      end_of_the_skype_highlighting
Sito internet: www.picchioniandrea.it

Piccolo Bacco dei Quaroni – Montù Beccaria (PV) – Frazione Costa Montefedele, 29 – 27040 - tel. +39.0385.60521 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0385.60521      end_of_the_skype_highlighting – fax +39.0385.262196
Sito internet: www.piccolobaccodeiquaroni.it

Pietro Torti – Montecalvo Versiggia (PV) – Frazione Castelrotto – 27047 – tel. e fax +39.0385.993763
Sito internet: www.pietrotorti.it

Vercesi del Castellazzo – Montù Beccaria (PV) – Via Aureliano Beccaria, 36 – 27040 – tel. +39.0385.60067 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              +39.0385.60067      end_of_the_skype_highlighting
Sito internet: www.vercesidelcastellazzo.it

A Gondola Ride - Magnificient, Magical Venice

Photo: Carlo Naya (1875)

(Venice, Italy) That image you see is by the photographer Carlo Naya, taken in 1875. It's the best one I could find to evoke the magic that happened to me late this afternoon.

I had gone across the canal to do some business. On the way back, I joked with the gondoliers. 

They said, "We want to give you a ride."

I said I had no money.

They said, "We want to give you a ride."

I said, "Oh, okay, very nice, in the future."

They said, "We want to give you a ride RIGHT NOW. Right now is the time. Right now there are no customers. Now is the time."

Of course I got in the gondola.

We made our way up the Grand Canal and under the Rialto Bridge. The people at the top waved to me and took photos. I waved back.

It slowly dawned on me the significance of what we were doing. A single woman riding alone in a gondola is almost unheard of in Venice, and it will attract photos. But more importantly, that the gondoliers would give me a ride... it was a signal of solidarity. It was a great honor.

The gondola took me to places I had never been before, down thin, quiet canals nearly impossible for the sleek, black boat to navigate -- but these gondoliers have the Venetian water running through their veins, like blood, and the vessel slipped easily through the arteries.

We burst back onto the Grand Canal, and the sky was Venetian Red, a Magic Color sent down from Heaven. The silvery Moon was almost full. It reflected the setting Sun.

Dark storm clouds held their tears, as if painted only for effect by an omniscient artist. They held their tears, but I could not hold mine.  I had tears in my eyes... I had tears in my eyes... the very strong message this beautiful, strong culture was sending... that Venice... and Italy... is sending to you.

When the voyage was over, the gondoliers apologized for speaking to me in the familiar "tu" and not "Lei," but they said, "You seem too young for us to call you 'Lei" -- which, of course, appealed to my vanity:)  I thanked them, and thanked them... then I told a few people what had just happened... and they were stunned.

I don't know how to describe, exactly, the enormity of the gesture because the gondoliers never do such a thing (well, sometimes they do if they think they will get lucky, but this was absolutely nothing like that -- this was done with the utmost respect).

One person said, after a long silence: "That means the entire energy of Venice has changed." I said, "Yes. We must respect this new power."

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

AFTER I wrote this, I found that photo that you see on the left on the website of Gondolieri Travel, an agency that, apparently, the gondoliers have created themselves. No one whatsoever asked me to do anything for that gondola ride -- it was given from the heart. For me, telling you about their site is like buying them a rose. Click here to visit their site:

"Gondolieri Travel is a branch office of the historical Cooperativa Gondolieri of Venice, the cooperative Daniele Manin was born with a different name in 1868 on 12th July, setting up the Mutuo Soccorso society in support of the gondoliers of Venice.

The Daniele Manin company name officially were registered on 1948, initially to give assistance and support to the gondoliers, then developing into a bigger company, enlarging the gondola transport service to other different activities: gondolas and piers maintenance, the construction and restoration of gondolas in their own Squeri (shipyards for the hand craftmanship of boats), such as the Squero Ognissanti of San Trovaso and the Giudecca shipyard, and on these days new administration and payment offices.

The gondoliers category were helped in the past by this company also from the cultural way, as the company arranged historic lectures and foreign languages courses, in order to help gondoliers work better, especially because during summer season gondoliers work with foreign tourists.

From the year 2006 the Cooperativa created their Travel Agency, in order to have the own booking office, and as they receive many different requests, enlarge their services offering any kind of private or collective excursions, selected hotels reservations, private transfers with water taxi and cars, and tailor-made solutions for any requests and needs."

Venice Carnival - Blast to the Past

(Venice, Italy) As I enjoy Carnevale 2010, here is a blog rerun from the cache of my Authors' Guild account -- the original, unfortunately, no longer exists -- of the Carnival three years ago, back in 2007.

22 febbraio 2007
CARNIVAL IN VENICE AND MORE

Director, Bruno Tosi, right, and Lucio Bisutto, singing owner of Trattoria Giorgione on Via Garibaldi with "The Marys" Festa delle Marie, Feb. 9

Venetian artist Maestro Ludovico de Luigi

Cat Bauer

Costume by Dominique Brunet

Cat Bauer

Sunglasses by Ottica Vascellari

Jewelry by Ganesha

Russian performers at the Casinò - February 11, 2007

How did they get the horse to La Fenice? La Cavalchina Ball - February 17

The crowd jumps on stage and La Fenice rocks - Feb. 17

Cat Bauer at La Fenice

Costume by Dominique Brunet 

Irene Bello, THE Mary - winner Festa della Marie

I'll try to get a more recent photo!

7 febbraio 2007
THE JURY IS IN

I have to say that being on the jury for the Festa delle Marie was SO MUCH FUN. Not only was I the first straniera, there were only a couple of women. I think I finally figured out why I get along so well in Venice: I have a Venetian sense of humor! Ha! VENETIANS GET THE JOKE. Marino Folin, who is a Very Distinguished Professor by day, had us laughing so hard -- he was really on target. I was sitting between Sig. Folin and the artist, Ludovico de Luigi -- if you can imagine. Sometimes things get a little heavy over here on the island, but, ultimately, everyone remembers it is the Divine Comedy, not the Divine Tragedy.

Anyway, it was fascinating to watch the difference in the girls, who were aged 16 to 27. The contest was amazingly fair, funny and respectful -- somehow we all came to an agreement and picked the top twelve without much effort. For the first time in Il Gazzettino, the girls' astrological signs were listed, as well as their other vital statistics. You can thank Yours Truly for that.

Bruno Tosi, who is directing Carnevale, kept the whole thing on track, and Roberto Ballarin, the director of Il Gazzettino, held up his end on the other side of the very long table.

Afterwards, Tommy Vee, who is a Very Cute International DJ, as well as being Venetian, was mobbed for autographs.

I am going to blog for Carnevale. I will let you know if it will be here, on Myspace, or both.

31 gennaio 2007

FESTA DELLE MARIE

Today I am going to be lazy and just put up my press release:

PRESS RELEASE

Cat Bauer

AMERICAN AUTHOR FIRST “STRANIERA” ON JURY OF ANCIENT VENETIAN BEAUTY CONTEST

CAT BAUER, YOUNG ADULT NOVELIST - ON THE PANEL OF JUDGES FOR

LA FESTE DELLE MARIE



Venice, January 31, 2007. Award-winning author, Cat Bauer, will be the first foreigner on the jury that selects the most beautiful, or virtuous, girls in Venice.

La Festa delle Marie originated from a pirate raid in 943 a.d., according to Venetian legend. In ancient times, Venetians married on only one day each year. A water procession from the Arsenale on the canal “delle Vergini” started the festivities. All the brides-to-be were rowed across the lagoon in decorated boats brimming with dowries, while their future husbands waited at the Church of San Nicolò at the Lido.

That year, pirates raided the procession, kidnapping the brides and the booty. An enraged Venetian rescue party executed the pirates and brought the brides back to the ceremony.

To commemorate the victory in the past, every year twelve patriarchal families would present twelve virtuous young women from poor Venetian families with a dowry, and the designation “le Marie,” or “The Marys.”

Today, the popular Carnival director, Bruno Tosi, together with Il Gazzettino, the local Venetian newspaper, sponsors a contest where Venetian girls aged 16 to 27 can enter to be a “Marie.” On Friday, February 2nd, the jury will convene at the Venice Casino to select twelve candidates.

“It is an honor and a privilege to be the first foreigner on the jury,” said Cat Bauer, creator of the teenage protagonist, Harley Columba. “It’s a tribute to all ex-patriots who live here and who love and respect this city.

Miss Bauer added, "My protagonist is a young artist who comes from the New Jersey suburbs. She must pass many tests of character in order to achieve success in New York City. To me, being virtuous means exploring all the colors life has to offer while maintaining a childlike innocence.

 

In his book entitled, ‘With Peggy Guggenheim,’ Paolo Barozzi, who is descended from one of Venice’s oldest noble families, says: ‘I am convinced that real nobility comes from the heart.’ La Festa delle Marie reflects that message.

“In addition, the festival on February 9th nearly coincides with the publication date of my books in America on February 13th, which makes it especially meaningful.” Knopf, a division of Random House, will republish Miss Bauer’s first novel, “Harley, Like a Person,” as well as a new companion novel called, “Harley’s Ninth.”

La Festa delle Marie takes place on opening day of the Venice Carnival, February 9th, at 3:00 p.m., starting at the church of San Pietro di Castello. The procession then makes it way to Piazzo San Marco by way of Via Garibaldi and the Riva degli Schiavoni. All the contestants will be treated like nobility during Carnival, participating in historic processions and exclusive palazzi parties. Then, on Fat Tuesday, one girl will be crowned with the title “Maria dell'Anno” or "Mary of the Year" in Piazza San Marco, winning a one-week vacation for two.

To learn more about the author and her work, please visit Cat Bauer at: www.myspace.com/catbauer and www.catbauer.com

Ciao from Venice in the Year 2010,

Cat

Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Mask by Sergio Boldrin

Venice Carnival 2010 - Carnevale Venezia 2010

(Venice, Italy) For those of you who are in Venice this Carnival season, which starts today, now is a great time to support some of Venetian Cat's sponsors:-)

INCENTIVE HARMONY

Incentive Harmony - Carnevale balls  and other gatherings in an authentic Venetian palace. That is one of the owners, the gracious and elegant Jeanne-Bénédicte Arnitas, you see over there on the left.

Click to go to Incentive Harmony website:
http://www.incentiveharmony.com

Click to read the Venetian Cat - Incentive Harmony blog:
http://venetiancat-incentiveharmony.blogspot.com/

Click HERE to go to Incentive Harmony Carnival 2015. 

Click HERE to go to Venice Carnival 2011. 

LA BOTTEGA DEI MASCARERI

Stop at La Bottega dei Mascareri at the foot of the Rialto Bridge for all your Venetian mask needs. (That is a photo of Sergio Boldrin before his hair turned gray! I am quite sure I contributed a hair or two:)

Click to read the Venetian Cat- La Bottega dei Mascareri blog:

http://venetiancat.blogspot.com/2008/03/venetian-masks.html

VIEWS ON VENICE

You will need a place to stay while you are here in Venice, so why not rent an apartment instead of staying in a hotel? That calls for Views on Venice! The grandmother of the personable (and gorgeous:) owner, Filippo Gaggia, used to entertain right in that image you see of the piano nobile.

Click here to go to the Views on Venice website:
http://www.viewsonvenice.com/

Click here to read the Venetian Cat - Views on Venice blog:
http://viewsonvenice.blogspot.com/

BISTROT DE VENISE 

Next, you will need some place to eat, and that is where the authentic Venetian food and extensive wine list offered at the Bistrot de Venise will serve you well. Sergio Fragiacomo is a real gentleman, and one of the most compassionate people I have ever met.

Click here to go to The Bistrot's website:
http://www.bistrotdevenise.com

Click here to read the Venetian Cat - Bistrot blog:
http://venetiancat-bistrot.blogspot.com/

If you look over there on the column on the right, you will see the rest of my sponsors, if you are in the market for eyeglasses (Vascellari) or jewelry (Arcobaleno)or (Ganesha), or even a short film about one woman's Carnival fantasies (StudioAC). 

The great thing about supporting any of my sponsors is that if you have any problems whatsoever, you can speak to me about it. If you are a regular reader of this blog, you know that is enough to strike terror in the heart of any evil company:) So you can be sure that all my sponsors are absolutely genuine and that you are getting good quality for the money you spend. Plus, they happen to be very nice human beings that are a joy to meet!

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Cat Bauer

Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Giorno della memoria 2010 - Remembrance Day in Venice

(Venice, Italy) Massimo Cacciari was the mayor when I first arrived in Venice back in 1998. In fact, I met him shortly after my arrival, although I didn't know who he was. 

I had been invited to the Palazzo Ducale for a ceremony for Il Gonfalone di San Marco, that blue book you see below, and he was one of the speakers. At that time, I didn't understand a word of Italian, but I could tell by his energy that Cacciari was a great speaker.

Afterwards, I went up to Cacciari and asked if he knew Franco Filippi, the publisher of the book, to whom I was supposed to introduce myself. He sort of smiled and said that Filippi had been there, but appeared to have left. I didn't realize I had just spoken to the Mayor of Venice!

Cacciari became the mayor again five years ago. In two months he will finish his second term, so it is sort of like Daddy is leaving. I don't always agree with his policies, but I do respect his heart, especially after having been immersed in the goings-on around this town. (Cacciari is a philosopher; you can see him around the city; he rides the vaporetto just like everyone else.) 

Venice is so small, and there is so much power concentrated in a tiny area, it is a wonder that he can still manage to weave a kind of magic fabric over the Venetians to try to keep them safe. 

Il gonfalone di San Marco. 
Analisi storico-araldica dello stemma, gonfalone, sigillo e bandiera della città di Venezia

This morning, Massimo Cacciari, together with Vittorio Levis, president of the Jewish Community of Venice, spoke about the Holocaust, and why it was important to remember it. Cacciari spoke very strongly, and said several things that struck me -- made me weep, to be honest. 

He said that what we must accept and understand is that the Holocaust was a rational design. That it was a rational, thought-out, political project, years in the planning. That the complicity of France, Italy and England allowed it to happen. He said that the concept of "Ama il prossimo tuo" or "Love Thy Neighbor" had been taken and completely inverted. 

The Holocaust can seem far away, as part of another era, another century, long, long ago, especially to those who were not born. In reality, there are many people who are still alive who can remember the Holocaust because it happened only 70 years ago! Think: just a short time ago, the Nazis were exterminating an entire segment of the population right in front of everyone's eyes and nobody did anything to stop it! 

After the speeches, we watched a performance of Salonicco43. It was the second time I had seen this piece performed. I wrote about it before near the end of A Sea of Angels back on December 8, 2008. 

Click to read it:
http://venetiancat.blogspot.com/2008/12/sea-of-angels-un-mare-di-angeli.html

Thessaloniki, also called the ‘Jerusalem of the Balkans’ or the “mother of Israel, counted a population of 100,000 in 1939, 50,000 Jews, many of Italian origin and nationality, present in all the different social classes and perfectly integrated with the Greek population. Historian Albertos Nar remembers it as “the largest and most prosperous Sephardite Jewish community in Europe, and one of the most important in the world”. Of the 32 synagogues in the city, fourteen of which were built by people from Sicily, Calabria, Puglia, all that remains are faded old photographs…

During the terrible months of 1943, the Italian consul in Thessaloniki was Guelfo Zamboni, a Fascist functionary of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs who, in the face of the inhumanity of the Holocaust, began a personal, heroic battle to try and save as many lives as possible by providing forged Italian identity cards that would allow their possessors to reach Athens and save their lives.

His tenaciousness, his courage, his perseverance saved more than 500 Jews from Nazi barbarity, men, women, children who became the protagonists of our cultural project, and who transformed our Zamboni into a new Italian Schindler. In 1992 he was given the title of “righteous among the nations”.

Cold, hard statistics from Wikipedia:

Jewish Population of Thessaloniki^[23]

Year	Total Population	Jewish Population	Jewish Percentage	Source
1842	70,000	36,000	51%	Jakob Philipp Fallmerayer
1870	90,000	50,000	56%	Greek schoolbook (G.K. Moraitopoulos, 1882)
1882/84	85,000	48,000	56%	Ottoman government census
1902	126,000	62,000	49%	Ottoman government census
1913	157,889	61,439	39%	Greek government census
1917	271,157	52,000	19%	J. Nehama, Histoire des Israélites de Salonique, t. VI-VII, Thessalonique 1978, p. 765 (via Greek Wikipedia): the population was inflated because of refugees from the First World War
1943		50,000
2000	363,987[22]	1,000	0.27%	(post-Holocaust)

I apologize for the brevity of this blog post, but unfortunately the Querini Stampali has changed its rules about Internet access, and have installed a two-hour limit.

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Love 2010 in Venice - The New Year

(Venice, Italy) On New Year's Eve, I found myself on the lower level of the stage in the middle of Piazza San Marco surrounded by 35,000 people who were knee-deep in acqua alta. (That image you see is from last year's festival, but I could not find a photo from 2010.) At midnight, everyone hugged each other and kissed, and it was lovely.

Now, I have been in Piazza San Marco before on New Year's Eve, and was truly frightened by the crowd. This year, however, it felt like Love 2010.

We were immersed in the lagoon, up to our knees -- it is only possible to ring in the New Year like that in Venice, caressed by the gentle waves. 

I have always believed that Venice would defend herself against her enemies, and New Year's Eve proved my theory correct. The lapping water discouraged violence and rowdiness, wrapped us in her arms and kissed us! --  Yes! Venice (Venus) herself, together with her husband, the Sea (Neptune), made a special appearance in Piazza San Marco on New Year's Eve and everyone was happy! We kissed each other under the full moon and drank Bellinis from the Canella family. We waved old-fashioned sparklers and danced. It was magical, and I hope it is a sign that all the bad guys are finally getting washed out of Venice. Venice herself is washing them away!

Other magical things have happened this holiday season that makes me think the future might brighten: on December 23rd there was a stupendous, free concert at the Church of Santa Maria Formosa -- Handel's Messiah, with such an interesting list of sponsors that I will feature them here:  
 
Nell'ambito delle celebrazioni del duecentocinquantesimo anniversario della morte di Georg Friedrich Händel (1685-1759), l'Associazione Musicale Orologio e l'Associazione culturale Tiepolo in collaborazione con la Fondazione Ugo e Olga Levi, la Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, Chorus Associazione per le Chiese del Patriarcato di Venezia e l'Associazione culturale Cultura Venezia Futura hanno organizzato la prima esecuzione in Veneto dell'Oratorio Messiah nella sua versione originale, con strumenti antichi e cantanti internazionali

I was weeping throughout much of the performance, it was so beautiful... it was spiritual... the music melted my heart, which I feared had frozen solid from all the abuse it had suffered in 2008 and 2009. The cold water from my heart poured out through my eyes, hot and hopeful. Listening to those human voices used as musical instruments... it was as if God had sent the angels down to Venice from heaven.

On Christmas Eve, I went to Midnight Mass, and, again, we had very high water, the highest it had been for a long time. But the Basilica was warm and full with people; it was amazingly dry inside, and our Patriarch was in good form. Afterward the service I was fortunate enough to pray in front of the Pala D'Oro! If you are a regular reader of this blog, you know how much I love to do that!

Click here to read more: Mary-ascends-to-heaven-and-Pala-D'oro

Happy New Year and Ciao from Venice,
Cat

Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Happy New Year! Auguri di Buon Anno!

(Venice, Italy) Cat wishes you all a safe, joyous and productive 2010!

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
http://venetiancat.blogspot.com

The Madonna of the Sun

THE MADONNA OF THE SUN

(from 8 dicembre 2006)

Today, December 8th, is the birthday of my protagonist, Harley Columba. It is also the day that John Lennon was assassinated. When I was creating Harley, I wanted her to have a deep connection to John Lennon, so she was born in the same hospital where John Lennon died.

December 8th is also a holiday here in Italy, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. This is the day Mary, the mother of Jesus, was conceived.

One wonders how that came about... since most Christian holidays turn out to have more ancient meanings.

It turns out that December 8th is also Bodhi Day, the day the Buddha became enlightened.

It is the Festival of Neith, the Egyptian goddess who gave birth to Ra, the Sun god; it is celebrated by the Feast of Lamps. Neith, in turn, transforms into Isis, the "woman clothed with the sun," wife and sister of Osiris and mother of Horus.

It is the day that Amaterasu, the Japanese Goddess of the Sun, was born.

On December 8, 1941, the United States declared war on Japan. The Japanese royal family is descended from the Sun Goddess.

***

On December 8, 2009, Cat Bauer woke up inside her apartment on the Grand Canal. 

Ciao from Venice,

Cat

Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

http://venetiancat.blogspot.com

La Biennale, the Entity

Kazuyo Sejima

(Venice, Italy) The Art Sector of La Biennale concludes tomorrow, which gives me the opportunity to write about La Biennale, the Entity. 

That photo is of Kazuyo Sejima, the first female Director of the Architecture Sector, who will curate the 12^th International Architecture Exhibition on August 29 to November 21, 2010. Born in Ibaraki, Japan in 1956, Kazuyo Sejima is a leading exponent of contemporary architecture.

A quick recap: La Biennale is divided into six different sectors: Art, Architecture, Cinema, Dance, Music and Theatre. The only thing that is missing, in my view, is Literature, and then we would have a perfect seven:) I remember the first year of the Los Angeles Times Festival of Books. No one was sure if the public would attend a book festival, but they came in masses, standing in line for hours to catch certain events. 

The Art and Architecture Sectors of La Biennale alternate every year. This year we had Art -- from which, in all honesty, we do need an entire year to recover -- so, in 2010, we will have Architecture. I never used to attend Architecture, but after last year, I thought the architects had surpassed the artists in their offerings -- in fact, I felt the architects were becoming the artists -- so I am looking forward to 2010. 

Back in March, the theme of the Dance Sector this year was Degree Zero; that is where we started: at zero with Director Ismael Ivo. It has been like lifting off a spaceship, but I think we are finally off into outer space. One of my favorite sayings is: If the foundation is rotten, the structure will collapse. If the foundation is solid, the structure can reach to the heavens. Ismael Ivo is a real human being, and the core he is creating has a jewel at its center. Degree Zeros' focus is on the creation of a national center dedicated to contemporary dance training. So, all you dancers, get ready to move to Venice!

During the film festival, on September 9th, I had the great opportunity to attend the inaugural conference at La Biennale's newly restored headquarters, Ca' Giustinian, a magnificient palazzo on the Grand Canal. The Council of Europe re-christened the ancient rooms of the palace with their conference on domestic violence against women. This is from Wikipedia:

The Council of Europe (French: Conseil de l'Europe) is the oldest international organisation working towards European integration, having been founded in 1949. It has a particular emphasis on legal standards, human rights, democratic development, the rule of law and cultural co-operation. It has 47 member states with some 800 million citizens.

The most famous conventional bodies of the Council of Europe are the European Court of Human Rights, which enforces the European Convention on Human Rights, and the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, which sets the quality standards for pharmaceutical products in Europe. The Council of Europe's work has resulted in standards, charters and conventions to facilitate cooperation between European countries and further integration.

To read the complete article, please click here: Council of Europe

After the conference, we had cocktails and hors d'œuvre on the terrace, which has an stupendous view of the Grand Canal and the lagoon, the triangle of the Dogana far below. I even had a chance to speak with Google Folks, who were there because they were sponsoring a Domestic Violence Awareness Contest in October. Unfortunately, due to my own domestic distractions, I did not announce it in time, but you can still see the results here: I Beat You I told the Google Folks that I would not exist if it were not for Google, and that I gave them my deepest appreciation. Yay, Google! Ca' Giustinian is open to the public; you can even have lunch on the ground floor terrace between the Bauer Palazzo and the Monaco.

At the final press conference of the film festival, the President, Paolo Baratta said that the Mostra del Cinema was part of a huge stimulation plan for the island of Lido itself, and that the film festival needed to prove it was a very vibrant organization in order to exist. It is difficult for me to imagine that someone could seriously ask the question: What use are international festivals? but, after everything I've experienced lately, I am well aware that this point of view exists.

Paolo Baratta said to look at the Venice Film Festival in terms of a publishing company, and that is a concept I can understand very well. Every publishing house is different -- and that is an important word: house. A publisher feels like a house; at some places you feel warm and at home, and at others you can't wait to leave. Also, in the world of publishing, things take Time. If I finish writing a book tomorrow, you will not read it until some time in the future -- not like a blog:)

Paolo Baratta said that the Venice film festival hopes to bring films up to the surface which would otherwise sink. Publishers are remembered for this. Great publishers never look at the fashion of the time, but look at the long view. A good publishing house brings up new talent. We must build our selections so they are recognizable as a selection of the Venice Film Festival.

When he said those words, I got goosebumps. That kind of thinking is why I respect Paolo Baratta so much, and the quality of films that the Director, Marco Mueller (who is very clever) uncovers always excite me.

The Music Sector, directed by Luca Francesconi, concluded on October 3rd, with an amazing night down at the Arsenale inside Teatro alle Tese. There were stages scattered all over the inside, high on ladders and down on the ground, with wild lighting and video projection. It went on for hours, and you could wander in and out, drinking excellent red wine from the Loredan Gasparini winery -- they even gave us food! The highlight, for me, was when 94-year-old David Honeyboy Edwards played the blues. I had to run backstage like a groupie and kiss him! I could not resist! From Wikipedia:

David "Honeyboy" Edwards (born June 28, 1915, Shaw, Mississippi, United States^[1]) is a Grammy Award-winning Delta blues guitarist and singer from the American South. As of October 2009, Honeyboy Edwards, at age 94, and his close friend, Pinetop Perkins (age 96) are the oldest and arguably, the last Delta blues players still touring the United States remaining from the last century. 

To read the entire article, click here: HONEYBOY

Finally, on November 4, 5 and 6, the admirable Maurizio Scapparo, Director of the Theatre Sector, closed the theme of Mediterraneo - 40 with Polvere di Baghdad, a production inspired by 1001 Nights, and starring another one of the good guys, Massimo Ranieri.

La Biennale feels like a warm house filled with the most fascinating people on the planet. It is a place to create and experiment, where it is okay to do things differently than the norm, yet still have commercial appeal. There are some hits and some misses, some great successes and some fantastic failures. But there is freedom, and there is creativity, and there is fun and happiness and joy!

Ciao from Venezia,

Cat Bauer

Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog