Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Cat Rides the New People Mover

(Venice, Italy) This morning I took a ride on our nifty new People Mover which boasts that it can take you from Piazzale Roma to Tronchetto in 3 minutes -- give or take. In fact, the entire boast is that it runs every 7 minutes, from 7 to 23:00, (11:00pm) and gets you there in 3. And you know what? It really does, give or take a minute, depending on the ride. It took 4 minutes to get back, but that's still pretty good. The track it rides on looks cool, sort of Neo Art Deco. (That image you see is by Luke Band (C) Copyright Reserved)

Tronchetto is basically a huge parking terminal, and before the People Mover, you had to take a boat, bus or walk to get to Piazzale Roma, which is the final place you can arrive by car to reach Venice proper before you are stopped by the water. Scoring a parking space in Piazzale Roma was always difficult and expensive.

With this new People Mover, however, you can park your car at Tronchetto, where it is cheaper (plus you can shave off some drive-time, which often consists of a bumper-to-bumper line of cars ) and then spend one euro to reach Piazzale Roma, or 15 euro for a monthly pass. It makes one stop at Stazione Marittima, or the port, where, apparently they are going to build yet another parking lot.

To experience more of the New World Venice, when you arrive at Piazzale Roma, you can walk over the new Fourth Bridge, officially known as the Ponte della Costituzione (even though Wikipedia says everyone calls it the Calatrava Bridge, I, and many other people still call it the Fourth Bridge.) From Wikipedia:

The Ponte della Costituzione (EnglishConstitution Bridge) is the fourth bridge over the Grand Canal in VeniceItaly. It was designed by Santiago Calatrava, and was moved into place in 2007 (connecting Stazione di Santa Lucia to Piazzale Roma), amid protest by politicians and the general public. The bridge was installed in 2008 and opened to the public on the night of September 11, 2008. The bridge was known as Quarto Ponte sul Canal Grande before the official name was adopted to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Italian constitution in 2008.[2] Tourists and locals in Venice now refer to it as the Calatrava Bridge (ItalianPonte di Calatrava a Venezia).[3]  


(The Fourth Bridge looks kind of Neo Art Deco, too:)


We even have new vaporetto terminals popping up all over town, also in the same style. There is one on The Lido, one over by Harry's Bar and one down by Arsenale. They are huge compared to the old vaporetto stops, and again, sort of sleek Neo Art Deco. I can't find a good photo of the new terminals, that is how new they are:)


Here in Venice, change is usually regarded with suspicion. We have a saying, "Com' era, Dov' era," which means"As it was, where it was." So, if a building goes down, as it did when La Fenice burned, the rule is that it must go back as closely as possible to how it was before. 


None of these new projects are breaking that rule because they are going up in places where nothing existed before. HHHhhhhmmmm. I wonder if, in the future, they will be concerned about duplicating the old People Mover "as it was, where it was," or restoring the Old Fourth Bridge built way back in 2009.


Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog



Friday, July 2, 2010

da Sandro - Funeral at San Giovanni & Paolo

(Venice, Italy) On Friday, June 11, 2010, I went to the funeral of Sandro the owner of da Sandro, a trattoria close to Campo San Polo (I borrowed that image you see from the blog of Market Manila; you can read about his da Sandro experience by clicking the link: http://www.marketmanila.com/archives/da-sandro-venice


Sandro was so beloved, he was one of those people who are known only by their first name, like Madonna, or Cher or Bruce. I met him long ago, when I first started writing for the IHT-Italy Daily: 

"Sandro was one of those people that if you were homesick, he would make you feel like family. If you broke up with your boyfriend, he would give you a pizza on the house. In a town famous for its fish, da Sandro is one of the few places where you can find a really great steak. Many times when I passed by, I stopped to just to hang out and drink red wine with Sandro. He was a real gentleman."


To illustrate the esteem in which Sandro was held by the locals, his funeral took place at one of Venice's most prestigious churches, the Basilica di San Giovanni e Paolo, where the Doges are buried. (In fact, I am looking at the awesome bricked side of San Giovanni e Paolo, with its towering Gothic windows, right now as I type this! I am sitting in Rosa Salva, a gelateria, a place for sweets and ice cream and drinks -- and another Venetian landmark that has been around since 1879.) A bit about San Giovanni e Paolo from Wikipedia:


The Basilica di San Giovanni e Paolo, known in the Venetian dialect as San Zanipolo, is a church in Venice, northern Italy. One of the largest churches in the city, it has the status of aminor basilica. After the 15th century the funeral services of all of Venice's doges were held here, and twenty-five doges are buried in the church.


A huge brick edifice built in the Italian Gothic style, it is the principal Dominican church of Venice, and as such was built for preaching to large congregations. It is dedicated to John and Paul, not the Biblical Apostles of the same names, but two obscure martyrs of the Early Christian church in Rome, whose names were recorded in the 3rd century but whose legend is of a later date. Click here to read the entire article:


The enormous church was filled with people who came to honor Sandro. In true Venetian synchronicity, I found myself seated in the row behind our former mayor, Massimo Cacciari, who turned and shook my hand when it was time to wish each other "Peace," part of the Christian ceremony. 


Leonardo, Sandro's son, has been carrying on the business as usual over at da Sandro, so if you are in the area, stop by and have a meal in honor of Sandro. 


Rest in Peace, Sandro. 


Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Oxygen - Finally a Breath of Air in Venice!


(Venice, Italy) Capturing Emotions is the title of La Biennale's 7th International Contemporary Dance Festival. After the world premier of Oxygen on Wednesday night, May 26th, I told Ismael Ivo, who conceived and choreographed the work (in addition to his other gig as the Director of La Biennale Dance:) that I was happy to be on Planet Earth at the same place and time as he is. Oxygen was a masterpiece, a long-awaited chance to breathe.

As the battle between the Dark and the Light seems to grow more intense each day, it was refreshing to see ancient truths brought to life through the human body -- a kind of physical manifestation of Leonardo Da Vinci's Vitruvian Man (which, by the way, is here in Venice inside the Accademia Gallery). I was transported back in Time to a point about 500 years ago, when Venice teemed with the most enlightened individuals in the world. 

Staged in Teatro alle Tese, it is always well worth the trip to Arsenale just to experience the ancient venue, where the Venetians built their renowned ships, transformed into an enchanted theatre. Ismael choreographed the piece for twenty-two young dancers from the Arsenale dance company, who went through an intensive learning process. In fact, if you are a young dancer, auditions for "Body in Progress 2011" will be held in Vienna and Venice. If accepted, THERE IS NO TUITION FEE.
Arsenale della Danza invites contemporary dancers into an intense physical learning-by-doing process of research and exchange. Four months (Feb. to June 2011) in Venice of daily classes with master teachers in a multifunctional space which fosters the dialogue with other artistic disciplines. Auditions in Vienna c/o ImPulsTanz on 7-8 August 2010 (deadline: 30 July) and in Venice at Teatro Piccolo Arsenale, on 23-24 October 2010 (deadline: 9 October). 
Click here to read more: http://www.labiennale.org/en/dance/index.html
Oyxgen was created in collaboration with the outstanding Orchestra of Padua and the Veneto, who played Arvo Pärt's haunting and beautiful Fratres for strings and percussion, and his Festina Lente for orchestra and strings, followed by John Adams' Shaker Loops for orchestra and strings. The performance began with a single dancer on a raised platform outside the theatre. As she aligned her palm with the setting sun, I knew we were in for a magical evening... and I was right!

Giorgio Cini Foundation
Corpo e Anima della Scrittura tra Oriente e Occidente
-
Body & Spirit in Writing in the East and the West

The next place I found some air was over at the Giorgio Cini Foundation for the end of the conference Corpo e Anima della Scrittura tra Oriente e Occidente, or Body & Spirit in Writing in the East and the West -- unfortunately, I only had time to experience part of the last day. Italian architect and designer, Italo Lupi and Japanese graphic designer, Shin Matsunaga (that is his love hand there on the left), primed us with insider knowledge about the use of symbols in today's contemporary world -- which I found interesting because, if you are reading the Venetian Cat - Venice Blog sidebar, you will know that I had just decided to create my own symbol! I am still working on it, but right now it looks like sun symbol with the "C" inside you see there on the right. I want to personalize it more, and make the outer circle gold and the inner dot blue and the "C" red, but I haven't figured out how to do it yet.


Next, I was... shocked, astonished... stunned... flooded with emotion when Sonu Shamdasini began to speak about Carl Jung's Liber Novus. First, Shamdasini expressed his gratitude that we were even able to meet at all at the Cini Foundation, considering the state of the world today. (Even access to the Cini Foundation has become a little bit of an adventure since the vaporetto stop no longer really exists. Well, it exists exactly where it always has -- in typical Venetian fashion, it is hidden in plain sight -- you just can't see it very well unless you know what you are looking for. But if you can manage to find your way into the Cini, you will be happy to find many other enlightened beings waiting there for you:) If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know how deeply grateful I am that such a place still functions here in Venice. You will also know that Carl Jung is one of my greatest heroes. Because I have been so isolated, I had no idea that this book had recently been published, and that it is the color red -- just like the book I have been keeping -- is most astonishing of all.

From Wikipedia:
Until 2001, Jung's heirs refused to permit publication of the book and did not allow scholars access to it.[10] Until September 2009, only about two dozen people had seen it.[11] Historian Sonu Shamdasani, an employee of the Jung heirs and their advisor in the handling of unpublished Jung material, and Stephen Martin, a Jungian analyst, created the Philemon Foundation in order to facilitate publication of Jung's works.
Click here to read the entire article:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Book_(Jung)

For those of you in Los Angeles, if you hurry, you can actually see The Red Book exhibit at the Hammer Museum through June 6, 2010. I must express my profound gratitude for the honor and privilege of hearing Sonu Shamdasani speak.



Another outstanding speaker was Luigi Serafini, author of La Scrittura del Codex Seraphinianus, who spoke with a twinkle in his eye. He was not listed on the original schedule, so it was a pleasant surprise. By that time, the interpreters had vanished, along with all their equipment, so I appreciated that he spoke in English since listening to long lectures in Italian can get tiring. 

From Wikipedia:
Luigi Serafini (born in Rome, 4 August 1949) is an Italian artist, architect and designer. He is best known for creating the Codex Seraphinianus, an illustrated encyclopedia of imaginary things in a constructed language. This work was published in 1981 by Franco Maria Ricci, out of Milan, and of interest and inspiration to others.

...The Codex Seraphinianus was originally released as in a limited edition of 5000 artfully-bound copies in 1981. It has been republished on four occasions, first in a 1983 English language edition; then in English, Spanish, and French editions in the 1990s, each again limited to 5000 copies; and finally in a more widely printed 2006 edition.

The cover ofPulcinellopedia (piccola)
Many other people have been inspired by the work. Roland Barthes was interested in the Codex. In 1984Italo Calvino wrote an essay on it, which can be found in Collezione di sabbia (Sand Collection) by Mondadori. The French choreographer Philippe Decouflé was inspired by it. Douglas Hofstadter wrote at some length about it.
Serafini does not comment on whether the language in the text is intelligible, though it uses a carefully-defined set of characters and numerals throughout.
Click here to read the entire article:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luigi_Serafini

Now I see he is another Leo, which explains why he felt like a comrade:) I also am very pleased that Luigi personally wrote my name, "Catherine Ann Bauer," in his secret code for me!

We ended the conference with tattoo artists and graffiti writers, and I was fascinated to learn they have an entirely different reason for their creations than Americans seem to have. To me, it seemed more tribal, more ancient. As if all the Western madness that is being imposed upon the culture is resulting in them expressing themselves in a collective consciousness kind of way. For me, Norman Mailer expressed this the best:
“Slum populations chilled on one side by the bleakness of modern design, and brain-cooked on the other by comic strips and TV ads with zooming letters, even brain-cooked by politicians whose ego is a virtue – I am here to help my nation – brained by the big beautiful numbers on the yard markers on football fields, by the whip of the capital letters in the names of products, and gut-picked by the sound of rock and roll screaming up into the voodoo of the firmament with the shriek of the performer's insides coiling like neon letters in the blue satanic light, yes, all the excrescence of the highways and the fluorescent wonderlands of every Las Vegas sign frying through the Iowa and New Jersey night, all the stomach-tightening nitty-gritty of trying to learn how to spell was in the writing, every assault on the psyche as the trains came slamming in.” -Norman Mailer
During the lunch break I wandered back to the Teatro Verde, "a 1,600 seat open air theater nestled among cypress trees and boasting a splendid view of the lagoon." I am quoting myself from a piece I wrote back in 2003 for the Italy Daily section of the International Herald Tribune. I also wrote that it "presents a host of international productions, often in conjunction with the Venice Biennale." Well, it does not do that any more. Right now, it is flooded with a green slime, and the green shrubbery is wild and overgrown, highlighted by wild red poppies. After hearing the last lecture, to me, I'd let the street artists get their hands on it and bring it back to life.

Malibran Theatre

From the Cini Foundation, I dashed home and then to the Malibran Theatre for more of Capturing Emotions, to catch Le Sacre du Printemps by Igor Stravinsky (who is buried here in Venice) and Vaslav Nijinsky, performed by Les Grands Ballets Canadiens de Montréal (Québec), directed by the distinguished Gradimir Pankov from Macedonia, a rather violent encounter between males and females.

The next piece, Bella Figura of 1995, choreographed by Jiří Kylián, who received the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement at La Biennale di Venezia in 2008, left me in awe. It was perfect. The dancers moved as if their bodies were liquid, individual atoms of the same entity. The music fit perfectly, by Lukas Foss, Giovanni Battista Pergolesi, Alessandro Marcello, Antonio Vivaldi and Giuseppe Torelli. Word around town is that it was a work of genius; everyone I spoke to had the same reaction I did -- as if we had witnessed something... heavenly.


When it came to the last piece, Six Dances of 1986, I will use Kylián's own words:
"Two centuries separate us from the time Mozart wrote the German dances. A historic period transformed by war, revolution and all sorts of social change. With these in mind, it is impossible to create any dance number simply reflecting the humour and musical brilliance of the composer. On the contrary, I have created six non-sense pictures; little pictures examining the tormented world of today, which most of us bear within our soul."
It did make us laugh, however, in a black-humor kind of way -- which brings us to my motto: "It is the Divine Comedy not the Divine Tragedy!" Let's stay in the right key, folks!

Ciao from Venice,
Cat
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Venezia Segreta - Secret Venice



SSShhhh! Venezia Segreta holds the key to a hidden, secret Venice known only to a few. Let them guide you through the labyrinth of this ancient, magical city created centuries ago by master builders, a jewel in the center of a lagoon. A city of whispers... a city of romance... a city of fantasies and dreams... Venezia Segreta will help make your dreams come true.

With the most beautiful town in the world as your stage, Venezia Segreta will write a script designed to fit your individual wishes. From business meetings and conventions, to marriage proposals, weddings and anniversaries -- and Carnival, of course -- they offer a unique, personalized service tailored especially for you.




Accommodations - The Setting 

A
personal space designed for your individual character is where the story begins. Quaint bed and breakfasts, five-star luxury hotels, ancient 
locandas, elegant boutiques, private apartments and more, the unique accommodations hidden in Venice are unlike anywhere else in the world. Venezia Segreta will find the perfect lodgings to match your personality, tastes and budget.


Meetings and Conventions - A Unique Scenario

For centuries, Venice has been a hub of power. In the past, competition between rich, powerful families created beautiful palazzi and places of business, each trying to outdo each other with grandeur and design.

Today, it is still possible to enjoy the splendour of their ancient ambitions. Venezia Segreta will find a distinct location best suited to your most exacting requirements, and transform your business event into a unique theatrical production. While you get down to business, Venezia Segreta will handle the details, and organize the catering for relaxing coffee breaks, scrumptious lunches and divine dinners. They will provide the necessary technical and multimedia equipment, as well as arrange the logistics of airport and in-town transportation.

Venezia Segreta organizes seminars, conferences, congresses and business meetings. Their complete, professional service combines efficiency and planning down to the smallest detail. With majestic Venice as the backdrop, your event will have a special flair, making it an unforgettable experience.


The Carnival - A Classic Scenario

Plan your story around the most magical event on the Venetian calendar: Carnival, which takes place in the days leading up to and culminating on Shrove Tuesday (or Mardi Gras). 

Have you ever fantasized about being an elegant Count or Countess, a powerful Emperor, a heart-broken clown, or even a sexy servant? During the Venetian Carnival, you have the freedom to indulge the hidden mazes of your mind. The wearing of a mask puts everyone on the same level: rich and poor, nobleman and citizen, beautiful and ordinary, old and young. Venezia Segreta offers a full program of events where you can act out your most fanciful dreams. 

If you want to experience Carnival but cannot make the date, Venezia Segreta will wave their magic wand and whisk you away to your own personal Carnival, at a time and date suitable to your schedule. Venezia Segreta can create Carnival when you dictate, any time of the year you choose, complete with costumes, masks and balls. Any time can be Carnival time!

Please visit Venezia Segreta to see photographs and programs of past Carnivals.


Neptune Offering Gifts to Venice - Tiepolo (c.1740)

Weddings, Marriage Proposals and Anniversaries - Scenarios of Romance and Seduction

Venice first married Neptune, the god of the Sea, more than one thousand years ago, and repeats the ceremony up to the present day during the Festa della Sensa, celebrated every year on Ascension Day. Venice is a bride with centuries of experience, ready to coddle and nurture you during one of the most important occasions of your life. Venezia Segreta guarantees a joyous, stylish event, whether you wish a traditional, romantic experience, or something more avant-garde.

Venezia Segreta will supply and organize:

  •  An enchanted setting 
  • Romantic accommodation 
  • Catering - Venezia Segreta offers a wide range of menus sure to suit the most discerning palate, from traditional Italian and Venetian regional dishes, to exotic cuisine, to choice finger food and hors d'Å“uvres. 
  • Floral decorations and bouquets, harmonized to complement your event 
  • Top quality musical entertainment 
  • Special Wedding Gondola
A proposal of marriage is one of the most important decisions a man must make. Dinner by candlelight... champagne and chocolate... an evening gondola ride... Venezia Segreta will provide the ultimate romantic setting so that your future bride will be sure to answer, "Yes!"

After many years together, sometimes a sprinkling of fairy dust is what a couple needs to put the magic back in their lives. A personal massage... exotic food... wine blessed by Dionysus himself... Let Venezia Segreta make your wildest fantasies come true in the most mysterious and sensual city in the world.


Special Occasions and Unique Events

Whether it's fireworks and a private boat for the Festa del Redentore, or a Grand Canal view for the Regatta Storica, Venezia Segreta can plan your event around the unique holidays that only Venice can share. New Years Eve or Christmas, Easter or Passover, Venice celebrates her holidays like no other city on earth. La Biennale's program runs throughout the year, offering contemporary art, dance, architecture, music and theatre events, in addition to the world famous Venice Film Festival.


Venezia Segreta Organises...

Secret gardens... palazzo concerts... photography tours... Venezia Segreta unveils a new, secret Venice, offering alternative guided tours which peak into the hidden corners and whimsical delights of this most visited, yet still mysterious city. Follow in the footsteps of Casanova, circle Venice by helicopter and see the lagoon city through the eyes of a seagull, savour top vintages at wine tastings, and master the secrets of Italian cuisine with cookery courses. With the guidance of Venezia Segreta, you will be sure to uncover your own secret Venice, known only to you.





Venezia Segreta
recommends:

  • Private Carnival ball any time of year, suitable to your schedule 
  • Historic and classic Venetian cuisine 
  • Secret Venice in a private gondola 
  • Gliding down the Brenta River in the“Burchiello” and a visit to Villa Palladiano 
  • Supper on hidden island in the Venetian lagoon 
  • Visiting Basilica di San Marco at night 
  • Private visit of Venice’s museums 
  • Private visit to a classic Murano glass factory 
  • Wine tastings
For enquiries or questions, please contact:

Venezia Segreta
 elektracentury@gmail.com

Go to Venezia Segreta website

Photo credits:
Sshhh: http://blog.libero.it/chaud/5855754.html
Pomellato: Tabou Ring http://www.pomellato.it/

Fairy silhouette: http://zanza00.deviantart.com
Venetian garden - http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sponger42/1/1227734520/tpod.html


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